Saving Old Seagulls

Andy a woman could follow those instructions.
Connect the remote fuel tank to a fitting screwed into the fuel cap where the air vent usually is, & " pump the ****** bladder" when the tank is full fuel will overflow from the new air vent hole.

Most of the Seagull racing guys, modify the fuel cap to take the remote tank fitting from another make of motor's remote tank. The cap will need a air vent hole drilled in it. To fill the tank just pump the bladder until fuel starts to overflow from the vent. To transport the motor without leaking f...

I'm told Charles, that there are no similarities in the trouser department!

My inside leg is 31" & yours is 34".

I think just making the location field, mandatory would be enough.

Depending on how easy your hull slips through the water the next step would be two props with a little more pitch. LLS or century 100 props would be the logical progression but only from the models with the 3.5 : 1 ratio gearbox. Really you should measure the revs with only 1 motor in the water &...

I've never seen any evidence that Seagull used Zinc on any of their cylinders, thought I have seen tin plate under the black paint on a late SD & AD 102 cylinders, or I think it was tin, as it was not solubule in the descaling acid I had to hand. This one looks like someone painted it in cheap s...

Tried that bloody string thing, that doesn't work either. The only way mine goes reliably, is to keep the cordless drill on the top of the round & round hold on hexy thing, but the battery only lasts about 15 mins, so it's only good for very short trips. But the best bit is, no smoke & very ...

They will all pump in a damp flannel without a prop.

A cornflake box should be big enough to cover the lowerunit up to the waterpump housing!

I thought I was the only person who was buying & collecting spares for prewar Seagulls, it looks like I'm wrong again. So if the new owner of these bits/motor would like to contact me I might know either the location of parts he might require, or who is remanufacturing those parts, or who is loo...

The purchaser can only have bought this to break, Fuel taps, cylinders, carbs & fuel tanks were this engine or earlier specific, so are virtually unobtainable, so little or no possibility of rebuilding. So I will be very suprised to see that number appear on the register, but I've been wrong sev...

Are we talking a lot of oil? like more than 1/2 a teaspoon an hour. If it runs well & is only weeping a dribble of oil, it doesn't really need fixing, if it causes you great offence, get the engine running & give it some light to medium taps with a flat ended punch & a smallish hammer st...

Hi Seaguller and Seagullesses, The New Zealand Great Race has been completed again .. once again in near perfect conditions the only handicap for the day was once again the Mighty River Power Company .. our old foes .. ever since privitisation of the power generation companies in our country this pa...

I'm told by an Aussi that their anular spinkter has a lot of give in it.
Might have to use a small one for 1/4 BSP.

Before the questions start perhaps I should explain what "old engine, new engine" means. Old engine = 102 or Century, 102cc. New engine = 125, 170, Osprey, Kingfisher or 5R, 102cc. Sports = Selva produced Seagull sport, 125cc. Unlimited engine = any Seagull modified in any way, provided al...

Dear all In view of the Tall Ships and the 400 anniversary - the Committee has decided to make this year slightly different - No records will be broken - but it will be a race still, with line honours, class winners etc. The reason that no records will be set - is because we are lengthening the cour...

Grease is only a suitable oil with a thickening agent added.

So if you need a runny grease just add a little oil, run the engine until throughly mixed, if it's too thick, add more oil, if it's too thin i.e. drips out of the prop shaft bearing, add more grease.