Saving Old Seagulls

Woodwork gauge is the tool for scribing marks.I prefer Marples

100% with this ^

Thought I would get motivated and do a bit. First I cleared the area of rabid dogs and then removed most of the rotted planks on the worse side and found 5 broken ribs. I've decided to cut out worse bits and glue in a replacement section with some ply to strengthen both sides of rib. Not original I know but in keeping with material on boat. I've decided to put a thin film of glass over the hull. More of a safety issue than anything else. I used some baking paper and blue tack to make a template for the planks. I'm hoping ply planks of 6mm ply by 160mm will bend and twist without too much coercion. Will it?

I think glassing over the hull is a good idea!

Doing a light glass overlay sounds like a good idea, and may even be one, however a few considerations are in order for a proper and lasting job using a quality epoxy like West System.

--All the old paint will need be removed and the hull must be dry...otherwise minimal saturation will be the result and it'll likely de-lam sooner than later.

--The inside of the hull will need to be well-sealed with something or stripped and coated with epoxy. Otherwise inevitable moisture will quickly migrate through the thin hull and eventually de-lam your epoxy skin. Lots of debate over the years concerning letting things breath or permanently sealing it up internally like one would with new construction cold molding or strip builds.

--Regardless of the above, some folks have had additional problems involving the different material expansion coefficient between the wood and the glass/epoxy, particularly on light hull material. Not an issue with new builds with high saturation levels, but can be an issue with old boats. Worse in locales with large temp fluctuations. The glass skin expands and contracts differently than the wood, de-lams result. Some folks add mechanical attachment to help...after curing...keel caps, gunnels, etc. Not sure I'm sold on this.

That being said, lot's of refits Ive seen going this route have had absolutely no problems...worth thinking about though, since your mileage may vary.

That's certainly a sweet little hull!

Good info there for me to digest. Thanks. I hadn't thought of temperature expansion considerations. Preparation is the key. I'll probably have the glass done by professionals. I've seen too many bodgy jobs and would like a clean professional finish. I'll probably re varnish the interior. It will never be a show boat but will be in keeping with its 70 year old age. Can glass be absolutely clear if I wish to keep the timber finish of the transom? The rest of the hull I wish to keep white so I guess that will have to be a white gel coat. Hopefully it will still look like a wooden and not a plastic boat.

I'll keep her upside down on a hardstand during off season and a ventilated cover other times. I been advised to sprinkle salt inside as it is only fresh water that rots wood....true??

I been advised to sprinkle salt inside as it is only fresh water that rots wood....true??

Don't bother with the salt, it will only Keep the moisture there! If you keep the boat upside down when not in use, it will be fine.

Yes you can epoxy the inside and keep it looking like wood. I would still varnish over the epoxy as most epoxy's don't have any UV stability.

The rest of the hull I wish to keep white so I guess that will have to be a white gel coat

If you are going to do this, you may have to get them to use epoxy flow coat so it will stick. Or just paint it with 2 pack paint.... It will save you some $$$ and still look good!

Agree with Nudge on all points.

Good one chaps! I'll go with a clear glass and then paint. Presumable I'll need to give the glass a sand down so the paint will stick.

Going to have to form up a few layers of thin ply around a curved timber mold and clamp and glue to get the correct shape for each rib. Lucky I'm semi retired now! Fun.

Presumable I'll need to give the glass a sand down so the paint will stick.

100% no sand, no stick!
Look up peel Ply, it will help with the finish on the outside.

Sand it is then.

Boat and Seagull parts working together....

Just a bit of work ahead of you then! I like the vintage c clamps! I have seen them being sold as that too!!
At least the sun is shining, all we have is rain for months and if its not raining its blowing its tits off

Perfect boat repair weather here. Hope the clamps don't get nicked! Communal car park. I reckon I might float-my-boat by chrissie 2018

Coming along well. Ribs repaired ready to re plank.

I'm looking forward to doing some epic trips on inland waters. Australia is a vast country with settlements far a few between, and I'm thinking I will need to have a provisional hull to tow behind to carry spare motors, fuel, provisions etc. Seagulls are a working horse so I know they will enjoy being part of a functional team. Historically though I haven't come across any evidence of inland water boats having a tow behind. I'm sure they have. Any insights?

I've decided not to go the glass cover. Oysters were my main concern but as I'm going inland fresh waters, star posts could be a bigger worry. Tam might be able to advise me on this as I note that a tar cover worked well in the Northern Hemisphere. Mind you I'm still traumatised by the Torrey Canyon as a young lad in Cornwall. Had a swim and looked like a black fella.... ouch, the turps was worse.

So I guess you wont be using tar to waterproof your boat then!

Undecided. Found this for my future record:

"Pine Tar is a traditional coating used on wood and metal. Pine Tar has been used for waterproofing the insides and outsides of boats for hundreds of years, dating at least as far back as the Vikings in the 9th century.

Pine Tar is a classic preservative for wood and natural fiber rope. Pine Tar is also used for wood preservation on utility and fence poles and wood shingles. Pine Tar is a safe and effective substitute for pressure treated lumber."

It is good for horses feet but I don't have a horse


https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/u ... e=Pine+Tar