T-S-D #3553 PUP

[AusAnzani]

Everything about this outboard is sweet. You did good B.

[Collector Inspector]

Just soaked and cleaned the tiller.

See the hook at the end?

When tilted it engages with the port transom bracket to give straight ahead. The gearbox and lower end would act as a rudder by the shape. Makes Sense.

Interesting Aye?

B[/color]

[Collector Inspector]

I sit here typing away and I am absolutely at a somewhat loss to words but I will try in that:

The Amal Carb ...............a black lump with shiny extras attachment thing if you can see it back earlier pics of motor. Yes it was "BLACK" and an unknown yet to be introduced friend.

I mixed a VERY diluted soak this morning early plonked it in and went into my day not expecting anything different a result from many years of doing so.

Back home, out of soak and a quick toothbrush and WOW!

To be absolutely honest I have never had a Brass Amal. I have never had such a small and unexpected two jet. I was thinking it had a needle slide etc just by the outer casting shape. Yes, I just plonked it in without a thort prior pulling it apart................as you do.

I am somewhat humbled by the machining and very obvious man hours that went into finishing this Old Part (So Important and fits in my palm).

How did they do this and what machines did they use? It is a work of art.

It is restoration/refurbishment Porn.

Two Pics that I could not get looking............as it looks to the eye...............Aye?

The numbers stamped are odd. I will let on If I have no joy in identification.

What an amazing hobby all this is.................

B[/color]

[AusAnzani]

A beautiful piece of engineering / workmanship. Love the contrast between the brass and chrome.

If you don't mind me asking, what are the ingredients of the soak you used? I'm here to learn master.

[Oyster 49]

That looks like the same carb as fitted to the early model F little forty, but in BRASS. Wow!

[Charles uk]

The only thing "same" about that carb, is the manufacturer & the overall shape, the carb off that nice TSD is 20 years older & for a cylinder 85cc's bigger, you've done well on that Bruce, that lower unit looks very good, does yours have the "fold-twist" prop?

It's only the lower unit that's a show stopper on these.

[Collector Inspector]

The only thing "same" about that carb, is the manufacturer & the overall shape, the carb off that nice TSD is 20 years older & for a cylinder 85cc's bigger, you've done well on that Bruce, that lower unit looks very good, does yours have the "fold-twist" prop?

It's only the lower unit that's a show stopper on these.

Thank you Charles but it has a fixed brass prop.

I would be interested to know of that option if you have any details by the way.

B

[Collector Inspector]

Progress has been stumped just now in that the Flywheel WILL NOT come off.

The flywheel has the handy screw it off option with a encapsulated nut arrangement utilised most effectively by Villiers of the day. Wind the nut out and off comes the flywheel.

Sadly not in this case.............it is very much NOT budging anyway shape or form. Bit of a speed bump in getting the crankshaft etc out because I need to slit the vertical cases to proceed.

What I have done is:

1. Lubricate and heat
2. Heat more taking care of what nice things live on the base plate. Packed it solid with wet rags and such.
3. Wind the nut out very heavily to the point where the top nut land to flywheel is shedding swarf internally?
4. Isolate the points follower away from the cam and really give it heat and lubricant etc...............I am considering magnets being fkd by the way so not really over the top.
5. Hit it with force everywhere taking into account damage that would be visible later. I have the worlds heaviest Rubber mallet at my disposal
6. Having a pint while Perth is being drenched in much needed rain for a reset of approach..............seems to be working by the way..............Pints that is.

I have used compressed air to blow out the swarf from within the twist off center of flywheel. All back to whence I started.

I will go see a large friend tomorrow, back off the nut midway, He can hold the flywheel and a good smack with the back of my late father's axe.............once!

If that does not do the trick?

More Pints and regroup aye?

After my 5 hours efforts.....................there is no obvious damage.

The idea is not to leave ANY damage even though there is a cover around the flywheel that would hide such.

An Old Dear Thang.

B[/color]

[phil]

Sometimes an air hammer can work wonders.

[AusAnzani]

Was thinking the same. Do you know of anyone in your area with an air compressor and rattle gun B?

[Collector Inspector]

Yes I have a rattle gun and compressor..................................I will try other option before I use that .

Thing is that the rattling is basically uncontrollable force. Threads can be stripped or the centre insert may be damaged/loosened as well.

Maybe a battery drill with an adjustable hammer function may be more adjustable................Hmmmmmm

[Collector Inspector]

We have an issue with this toffy English Gentleman.

Sunday drive to Mates' workshop. Not mechanical more fabrication so different means of trying flywheel removal.

It will not budge not in any way shape or form. Nothing has been marked or broken etc.

We had a close look over a CUP OF TEA with lemon and had a brainstorm and I went back to when I first undid the flywheel nut............

1. The nut was too easy to undo initially, it just undid so in hind sight it was not done up at all.
2. I fixed a obvious propeller ding first off.
3. Some one had an effort to replace the shear pin which right now is new.

We put to TDC via piston and could not access the points at all even using the retard travel on the base plate + 0r -.....................see where I am coming from yes?

There are two marks on the flywheel one an arrow and another a *. They do not line up with anything logical at all when checking where the crankshaft is at.

I am now looking for my magneto spanner set to get a points gap to confirm the following nasty.....

I think that the flywheel has spun and broken the key. I actually do not know if it even has a key which may be possible as so early no numbers except Patent ones are visible.

I am not going any further until some further Non Destructive Testing. XRay the Sod and I will know what is inside and how I logically may well proceed.

I believe not an over the top investigation in this case. Not that expensive as for humans by the way.

Meanwhile back into the ignition for the Seasprite and I will let you all know what is what within the TSD ignition hub.

Stay tuned.

B

[phil]

I did not mean an air tool that rotates, I was referring to the type of air tool used with differing ends, some of which cut, others are made with a face similar to a hammer used to drive nails. The motion is that of the type of tool used to break concrete or pavement but on a much smaller scale, no rotational force is exerted.

[Collector Inspector]

Phil Sorry..........Yes now I see and I raced outside and hooked one up to the compressor, Loaded the nut back tight again and with a dolly between the nut and hammer tip gave it a go. Sadly not removed but it rotated afterwards when I backed the nut off. Or maybe it rotated from earlier I do not know.

The wheel has turned on the crankshaft enough for me to get something reasonable access to points at the correct sort of position with the advance plate fully retarded and at TDC sort of. This could be something in that IF I can get a spark (remember that there is no point gap from previous) then why remove the flywheel at all. I wanted to get it off so as to remove side plates and split cases to check rings really. Cases heated to mild but hot and carbon and ring release stuff thrown in. Wrapped in a blanket while stuff was boiling inside.

Anyway

Flywheel rotated but will not come off still. No not any way shape or vertical.

Seeing that the Old Bloke has a 3 piece crank (Built Up) I am not going any further. Break that and end of story unless someone has found a spare parts motor for me that is

So get a spark and be done with that and tension the nut down after. Very seriously tight. If I can find 5/32 BTDC anywhere within the advance travel that will be OK by me as It will run nicely at that

I have ordered some new BA magneto/electrical appliance spanners by the way as I can not find the really old collector crap that I have somewhere.

They are a good price and available UK.

Fingers crossed for a spark aye?

More than one way to skin a ships cat.............Sorry Cello

eBay item number:
371104607196

B

[phil]

Sorry that idea did not work, was hoping.