I was finally able to get the brass screws undone to access the water pump. It's not much of an impeller but it seems to work very well.
The only reason I took it apart was to change the screws.
This is what I found!
Both sides look the same.
The other thing I did was clean up the mag base
It could almost be mistaken for a new one..... But it is not!
I think this engine will look quite nice all polished up!
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
The gearbox and water-pump housing/impeller on your Minor appear to be the same as that which you would find on any Pilot. You will note the impeller sits on an offset (from centre) cam, so what you have there is a reciprocating water pump similar to that which appeared on many early water-cooled outboards.
The ignition plate and associated components are however different from those on an Anzani Pilot.
In my humble opinion, all Anzani's look their best when they are polished up so I for one am pleased to hear you're going that way.
Your engine looks real nice.
Looks like I may have to make a new nut to hold the prop on as well. Is your one made of aluminium? The nut I my engine is a crappy looking brass one.
Started to have a play with the buff
Started off with a poly pad style buff it make the aluminium look quote dull but takes the scratches out reasonably fast.
then I changed to a cotton buff with some polishing soap for a look.
There was quite a bit of sand drop in this casting, I not sure if I will be able to get all of the marks out... but I will give it a bit more of a go!
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
Yeah, my prop nut is made of aluminium. I've got a couple other outboards (including Aussie made ones) with the same prop nut, so it would appear this was a purchased part and not something made by Anzani. Anyway, having seen some of the work you've already done, it wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult for you to turn one up on your lathe.
Re the polishing. You seem to have found an easier way than me to smooth out the aluminium, so thanks for that.
What you've done so far looks great. If you want to take that to a super bright finish all you need to do is hit is with 1000 wet and dry to remove the scratches and work up to 1600 before buffing it with the grey and then the white polish.
You won't get rid of those deeper indentations, but that's ok. These things weren't perfect back in the day.
Well while I have been waiting of some pics of the mixer (still waiting) I got the coil sorted.
I sent the mag base half way round the world and had one custom made.
It may not look like the orignal but it fits and works like a champ!
when the flywheel is on nobody will be able to see it.
While the coil was being sorted I polished the cowl and tank a little more. The flywhell polished up quite nicely too!
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
I start off with a grinder with a 3m Scotch bright. They come in differant "grits"
For the bigger areas I change the buff on the polisher to a polypad type wheel, I think it is about 150~ 200 grit.
My buff is a simple homemade thing, I used a spa pool motor (they have a thread onthe end of the shaft) bolter to a bit of ply. The tapered spindle came from Bunnings along with the polishing cotton buff and cutting soap.
for the small tight areas I use a rotary tool with similler tools!
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
Interesting!
On my engine the casting has some grinder marks (probably where the casting was fed from) I wondering if the casting may have been broken at this point and that is where the leaver was attached?
That is also the same side the mixer is on!
Only thing is it is on the opposite side to the pics you show. Is there any grinder marks on your mark 1 casting?
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
