1961 Century Plus: first pictures
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
1961 Century Plus: first pictures
Hi team, behold my CP!
As can be seen it has the Villiers carb:
As can also be seen it has no serial number!
So, I tried a couple of wee tests. Firstly, no spark but that could easily be a duff lead, I'll investigate later. Engine turns freely, so that's a plus!
Next port of call was the gearbox. I removed the filler cap for a wee look and eventually discovered this!
Grease!
The entire gearbox is packed in grotty grease and sealed with a fluorescent orange gasket sealant. So now I have to strip the gearbox completely and clean the components. Here's hoping there is no damage to the gears once I get a look!
I'll keep you posted as I progress with what looks like being a slightly bigger job than I first thought!
Cheers for now,
Al.
As can be seen it has the Villiers carb:
As can also be seen it has no serial number!
So, I tried a couple of wee tests. Firstly, no spark but that could easily be a duff lead, I'll investigate later. Engine turns freely, so that's a plus!
Next port of call was the gearbox. I removed the filler cap for a wee look and eventually discovered this!
Grease!
The entire gearbox is packed in grotty grease and sealed with a fluorescent orange gasket sealant. So now I have to strip the gearbox completely and clean the components. Here's hoping there is no damage to the gears once I get a look!
I'll keep you posted as I progress with what looks like being a slightly bigger job than I first thought!
Cheers for now,
Al.
- Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4183
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
Grease is for Anzani Pilots
Al
Nasty Grease full of salt I bet. Oh well, welcome to Seagulls previous owners.
You may well want to remove the block and look in the water jacket as well at this time.
A wee clean up there as well is certain.
Keep the pics of progress coming on this post mate so a time line and "endeavors/advice" can be followed in order.
It will make great reading and be helpfull to others over the next month I am sure.
Stick with it Mate.
Regards
C.I.
Nasty Grease full of salt I bet. Oh well, welcome to Seagulls previous owners.
You may well want to remove the block and look in the water jacket as well at this time.
A wee clean up there as well is certain.
Keep the pics of progress coming on this post mate so a time line and "endeavors/advice" can be followed in order.
It will make great reading and be helpfull to others over the next month I am sure.
Stick with it Mate.
Regards
C.I.
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
CI, thanks for the comments. Don't worry, I intend to do a photo-blog of the trials and tribulations of Seagull Restoration Mind you. it's going to take me more than a month!
Niander: the previous owner was in the police force. He may have acquired it at an auction of stolen/un-recovered goods!
Any advice and comment much appreciated!
Al.
Niander: the previous owner was in the police force. He may have acquired it at an auction of stolen/un-recovered goods!
Any advice and comment much appreciated!
Al.
- Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4183
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
Choke Chain
Looks a bit odd yes but when starting in cramped corners (Crock Infested Northern Territory Example) a worn choke without easy finger access can be a problem. Especially if a Crock has removed a few earlier in Sea gulling about the N.T.
Chain loop around thumb of tank steady hand, pull with the other, it starts , you weave between said crocodiles and mangroves and when ready give it a pull to reverse choke?
Maybe if really worn, attach to some screw on transom?
No idea a European similarity but handy all the same if travelling continental with ya Gull.
Regards
C.I.
Chain loop around thumb of tank steady hand, pull with the other, it starts , you weave between said crocodiles and mangroves and when ready give it a pull to reverse choke?
Maybe if really worn, attach to some screw on transom?
No idea a European similarity but handy all the same if travelling continental with ya Gull.
Regards
C.I.
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4955
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Sorry to disapoint, most of the Seagull distributors carried a stock of new crankcases, as many of the seagulls that were stood leaning against the middle of the shed wall, were knocked over snapping off the tiller arm stub, needing a new crankcase. And often for a heavyly used outboard it was easier to replace the crankcase that contained new bearings, than fit & ream replacement mains.
Non of these replacement crankcases had any form of identification numbers stamped on them, so unless the repairer had a set of letter & number stamps to hand they never got stamped.
And no one cared, the owner wanted a working outboard, not a piece of maritime history, will it run? not when was it made? seems to have been the prime source of motivation.
Non of these replacement crankcases had any form of identification numbers stamped on them, so unless the repairer had a set of letter & number stamps to hand they never got stamped.
And no one cared, the owner wanted a working outboard, not a piece of maritime history, will it run? not when was it made? seems to have been the prime source of motivation.
Latest news: the gearbox is now clean and grease-free. The bevel gear looks to be true and free from wear (no pictures cos it was a messy job!).
I've also cleaned the gunk out of the fuel line.
Next job is to investigate the lack of spark. The HT lead seems to be ok, checked it with a multimeter and got evidence of continuity.
Next question is: Where exactly do I stick the probe to check the coil? The HT lead hole is very big and the probe is very small! What mark on the coil should I be aiming for?
All help much appreciated,
Al.
I've also cleaned the gunk out of the fuel line.
Next job is to investigate the lack of spark. The HT lead seems to be ok, checked it with a multimeter and got evidence of continuity.
Next question is: Where exactly do I stick the probe to check the coil? The HT lead hole is very big and the probe is very small! What mark on the coil should I be aiming for?
All help much appreciated,
Al.
- Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4183
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4955
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK