Removal of dome nut

[websterj]

OK, thanks. Printed and will have a read of it (old school - still read books on paper).

Sorry if I am repeating questions perhaps already answered. Will do more research.
Guess, like all newbees, just want someone to say "here's your problem mate, just do this and it's fixed!"

Continuity (resistance) between point set and plate is .01. Fluke meter set to 2k.
This is with one prod between the two points, the point set floating free and the other prod either on the plate or one of the two studs holding the coil.

Oh, I just had a quick scan of that referenced post.

I have no continuity from the plug wire (spark plug end) to anything. A neighbor who supposedly knows about this stuff, says that's normal, and so I sort of disregarded it, but the referenced post seems to indicate there should be continuity from plug end to baseplate.

An unused, new, Wipac coil unit ( mk 2 , on its baseplate, gives me the following -
2K ohms approx between Plug Terminal - and - baseplate/coil mounting lugs/wire to points terminal screw( even with the points gap insulated ) ie, even with the gap open, the coil side of the points is continuous to the baseplate.

Thanks,

Jim

[websterj]

Forgot to mention to you - that little snippet from the post also tells me it's OK to have continuity from the points to the baseplate.

Odd. Guess someone needs to tell Fluke.
Still need to read the entire article and I guess all other posts having to do this Wipac character.

Thanks,

Jim

[Ian Malcolm]

Here is what I had to say about testing Wipac coils. A further note: The primary should have a very low resistance, an ohm or two at most which will look like a direct short on many meters. If you are seeing a low resistance measured across the points with about 1 to 2 ohms difference between points open (higher) and points closed (lower), it is probably OK.

[websterj]

Read the post as suggested at
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.ww.savin ... f=2&t=1832

Also watched the video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0

Seems to all indicate a bad secondary coil winding.
But then the plug wire goes into this little black cylindrical thing underneath the baseplate (seems to be in two parts, the outside half rotates separate from the inside half) - could it possibly be something in there loose?
Probly wishful thinking that it is just a disconnect or corrosion of some type. From what I read, secondary coils go bad becuz of thin wires.

Either way, to proceed, seems I need to be able to get the coil assembly off of the baseplate and also that cylinder thing off - is that a condenser in there?

I can just start unscrewing things and see where it leads, but even with removing the two stud nuts, nothing moves so there's some hidden tricks somewhere.
Have a feeling rust and corrosion is helping to hold it....

Is there a parts diagram/drawing available anywhere as a sort of guide.

Or should I just start asking/begging/searching for a replacement "good" Wipac Mk II?
Seems everything is in UK unfortunately, but if I have to get it from there maybe send to Germany (daughter lives there). Will see.

Either way, gotta get it off or just hang up the engine as a outdoor decoration. Not gonna get rid of it - looks kinda nice and antiquey.

I made a few pics of the ignition available; 1390 is front side of coil with points floating free (more cleaning to do of course), 1391 is back side, 1392 is underneath where the plug wire attaches.
pics at http://www.box.com/s/5xyrjh6vvtac6hja9sqc

Thanks for any advice and help.

Jim

[Ian Malcolm]

Unscrew the retaining screw of the metal tab that holds in the wiggly thing at the end of the lead from its boss under the baseplate. You need to get the lead off to test it properly and the wiggly thing just pulls out directly away from the flywheel center once the retainer is removed. Don't remove the coil unless it is dead. It normally just lifts off once its fixings are undone and the lead is out, but it may be glued in place by a decomposed gasket which WILL need replacement.

[websterj]

OK, thanks much.

Pulled it off, so have the plug wire in my hand.
Zero continuity between plug end and that little springy copper thing - pushed all the way in with the dvm prod.

Now from points to ground is around 1.2 ohms.
The nipple inside where the plug wire to ground is just over 5k ohms.
That seems to be close to what I've seen in other posts.

My dvm - an old Fluke, lost a prod so had to use my other old Fluke 77 which is auto-ranging - much better I think, but very sensitive.

I am not sure what is inside the rubber thing (they probly had a name in some manual), but see no way to take it apart, so my first inclinication is to scrape a bit of insulation off the wire just away from the thing connecting the plug end to the wire itself and see if that is the issue.

I feel like I am in a train tunnel and see the light at the end, but maybe it's a train
Other ideas welcome.

Thanks,

Jim

[JERSEYMAN]

Apart from dirty points, the only other ignition problem I have ever had has been based around the plug lead, a continuity test is not really good enough on ignition leads as they tent to break down under load, so either the brass contacts in the coil were dirty, or the leads were at fault, they come apart so that you can just change the lead. the plastic end that goes into the coil is attached to the lead by a little brass screw down the center of the spring, you need to use a 3mm flat bladed screwdriver and care should be taken not to stretch the spring too much. The screw goes through the lead making contact with the copper core, to me it seems an area of concern when the motor has been used in salt water. Every time I fit a new plug lead and new plug cap I seem to get a much better spark, I'm now fitting a new lead/cap to every motor I get straight away, it also take to load off the rest of the ignition system ultimately making it more reliable.

[websterj]

You are referring to the "thing" I removed from under the coil after removing the retainer, yes? There is a spring with a little brass tip that springs in and out - I guess to make contact. There is no way to get a screwdriver - no matter how small - in there unless I pull the brass tip off the spring, much less even see a screw underneath the brass tip.
I assume I need to try to gently pull out that brass tip.

Maybe I shouldn't have done this, but I also peeled a bit of rubber back from the wire just below the plug tip to expose bright copper wire.
No continuity from there to anywhere - neither the plug end or that little brass tip when pushed full in.
Figured could always seal it back up with silicone or even resolder it.
The plug end seems a bit cockeyed - almost sticking out of the rubber from being bent so much.

Hope not being too much of an idiot, but I am baffled.

Thanks,

Jim

[websterj]

OK, got the little brass tip out and staring at the little screw - bright and shiny.
Will try to remove it and see where it takes me.

Thanks again,

Jim

[websterj]

Got Screw out, pulled wire out, cleaned both - clever little arrangement.
Continuity in wire from the end I pulled out to the little cut I made just before the plug end.
No continuity to plug end, so guess next is to cut a little off the one end, and resolder the plug end.

Hopefully after putting back together will get some spark. On to the fuel system then - fingers crossed for both.

And this is why the second time you do something, it is so much easier.

Thanks again

Jim

[Charles uk]

Go & buy some new cable, most motor part stores sell copper cored spark plug cable & a new rubber screw on, no resistance plug cap, take a plug with you as a lot of them won't fit an 18mm plug.

[JERSEYMAN]

The spark plug caps I use are NGK LZFH these are black non resisted plastic screw on caps and only cost £1.00 each, the copper core lead I get comes in 20 meter rolls and cost £14.00 from a local motor factor but I see them for sale on ebay for about £2.00 for a meter.

cheap as chips really.

[websterj]

Good advice. Will do that Monday.

Thanks,

Jim

[websterj]

Well, I got some plug wire which seems fine. Got a Champion D16 plug which seems to have the correct threads for the engine.
Also got a NGK LZFH (Stock no. 8381) which seems to be totally a misfit!

The wire screws in fine on the one end, but it is not threaded, but is a snap-in type which neither the original NGK A-6 nor the new Champion D16 will go into, with or without the plug screw top; in fact, the D16 ceramic will not even go into the plastic housing so will not even reach.

Thought I had this nailed, and ready to go to next component (carb), but this is a snag.

Guess I can look around ebay again.

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Jim

[Collector Inspector]

NGK Caps are not what D16 or any other commercial plug can accept, yes, too small an I.D.

I use my Dremmel with paper abrasive tip inside these NGK caps..........buzz around a few times inside.................they will fit the larger porcelain no problems after that and look neat and are water proof.

I use the non resistor caps with the wire clip inside that zips onto the thread at plug end. Not the "Tit" type clasp version.

B