Proper water jacket cleaning

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Stelios_Rjk
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Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

I was always tempted.

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I finally drill it. Luckily enough I didn't find inside what old engineers in Greece call "glass". "Glass" cannot be drilled with the usual drill bits.

Then I used a very sophisticated tool..

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Since nothing else was coming out, I tapped the hole. (1/8 BSP)

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Success!!

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Now I can have access to the blind chamber every now and then to clean it or I can attach a pipe over there to spray some water inside the exhaust.




Cheers and Bruce's Beers!
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
Keith.P
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Keith.P »

To be honest I cannot see the point, something else to worry about undoing or falling off/out on a seagull.
Easy access for flushing, once you have removed the engine, exhaust and water pipe.
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Rob Ripley
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Rob Ripley »

Some may remember I did the same (some years) ago on a Silver Century and then on my favorite Century 100. Luckily there was nothing to clean out and it made no difference to the sound.
So I suppose the ability for an inspection hole might be usefull.
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

As this chamber is the weakest point on these cylinders a hole there give access to clean that point. Even if you clean the rest of the water jacket, inside there crud remains.

That leads to the usual effects crud creates.. cracks. I have seen some cylinders cracking on that point even if proper cleaning to the rest had been done.

Thus, I thought it would be a good idea.



Plus I can now on try water spraying inside the exhaust etc.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
Horsley-Anarak
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Horsley-Anarak »

Stelios_Rjk wrote:As this chamber is the weakest point on these cylinders a hole there give access to clean that point. Even if you clean the rest of the water jacket, inside there crud remains.

That leads to the usual effects crud creates.. cracks. I have seen some cylinders cracking on that point even if proper cleaning to the rest had been done.
Very true, good move Stelios.

H-A
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Rob Ripley
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Rob Ripley »

I'll accept that.
weddigen
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by weddigen »

Nice one Stelious! great idea-probably will prolong the life of the Block.Decent blocks are becoming harder to find and since no one seems to be making any more of them it makes sense to mind the one you have.Are there any disadvantages to this procedure (aside from the risk of detachment)?
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

Hi!
I can't see any disadvantages. Only some extra care when drilling. As the hole is done to uneven material, cast iron and deposits, the drill bit stuck somewhere and snapped. So when using a vertical drill it needs light pressure. Then another point is that the plug should be made of brass in order not to rust together with the cast iron and stuck there forever.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
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Charles uk
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Charles uk »

Now you've gone that far, perhaps it's time for the next step Stelios.

The crankcase side of the exhaust port is the hottest side, & even with your modification still has a blind water pocket that will retain water which after use will evaporate with the heat remaining in the cylinder block.

Not a major problem after fresh water use, but quite a different situation after salt use as it will leave deposits of salt crystals, that form a very corrosive mixture after they've absorbed a little moisture from the atmosphere putting you back where you started unless you remove your plug & clean after every use, way too much effort for most owners.

Why not move your water delivery pipe to your new hole & increase cooling to the hot side of the exhaust port, & put a smaller diameter tube (maybe 150mm long to prevent any water finding it's way back into the cylinder) into the vacant delivery hole to allow some water back into the exhaust for cooling & possibily a little silencing & to permit any traces of water in both sides of the exhaust port to drain away.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

That can be easily done, I just need some 1/4 BSP taps. Well you gave me an idea, thank you!
Apart from moving the water delivery pipe to the new hole I would try to fit an internal exhaust like the one used on QBs. This internal exhaust could be hold in place by the fittings that get in those holes. One fitting would carry water and the other one would allow some water pours on the internal exhaust.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
Horsley-Anarak
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Horsley-Anarak »

Careful Stelios, you will be racing next.

We can sort you a boat if you want to do Hayling this year.

H-A
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

Thanks for the invitation H-A!

That would be perfect and it would happen in the future. I suppose not this time but... :D
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
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Collector Inspector
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Collector Inspector »

S Said

"Thus, I thought it would be a good idea."

I think so as well.

B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

Another one added to the collection! Yeap, I also gather all taps and dies that can be found on a Seagull. By the way if anyone is looking for something like BSW, BSF, BSP and maybe some USA thread sizes I may can help. There is a store locally selling old tools cheap as they want to get rid of them.

So I get 1/4 x 19 BSP.

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Job done! Now I can swap the water transfer pipe and add a pipe to spray some water in the exhaust.


Cheers
S
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
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Collector Inspector
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Re: Proper water jacket cleaning

Post by Collector Inspector »

Neatly done S.

8)

B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
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