102 vs century

[Mutineer]

I tried switching around the clutch rod and on mine as suggested.
When it's enagaged it's just on the bottom edge of the exhuast pipe clamp, when I disengage the prop it sits quite a bit above the clamp so if it's loose enough to move sideways it's loose enough to vibrate down and cause it to start to engage a bit and make ugly noises. So I put it back how it was and tightened it up again. It's a little stiff , but it works
Was I doing it wrong?

I also used a hose camp to raise my motor a few inches. it seemed to be a bit happier and not as inclined to drown.
I guess i could get the same result with a higher wooden part to my adjustable bracket. The hose clamp was easy though.

[phil]

It appears to me that you can make a certain amount of adjustment by screwing the long rod in or out of the clutch casting, at least that is what I did to adjust mine so that it has more positive shifting and does not slip in or out of gear.

[Michael]

What Phil said.

[Mutineer]

Regarding the clutch lever. I can't see how on mine it could lock in neutral
Even if I reverse rod and the end points inward. it's about a good 1/2 to 5/8 above the exhaust pipe clamp. It actually sits up on the cylinder and I believe I've screwed it in as much as it can go(down below). This is enough play that it can vibrate partially into gear and the rod takes the paint of the cylinder a bit.
Is the exhaust clamp supposed to be right up against the cylinder?
Mine is about a 1/4" down from the top of the exhaust pipe

THanks

[Collector Inspector]

I thinks that a pic of your exhaust clamp is called for.

A pic as to how it sits with shift rod also.

Something aint right.

Do you have a multi-hole gear shifter? Two holes or one?

Should all be sweet if a Bird Nesting aye.

B

[JERSEYMAN]

More or less this is how it should be, this pic shows the earlier clamp without the flat but the dimensions are about right with the motor in neutral/out of gear, a pic of your setup would tell all.

[Mutineer]

I might've figured this out from the various suggestions people have made.
I think it's a combination of them all pretty well with some parts needing moving(clamp,pipe, rod)
I'm including photos of the different areas so people can let me know if I'm on the right track (in a couple the rod is reversed and the pin is out, one photo shots the clamp and the flat spot)

I believe:
-My clamp needs to be moved up so it's right against the cylinder and not a 1/4 down the pipe
-The clamp should be rotated so the flat bit, which is right next to the tightening bolt is in the right spot
(the bolt is currently on the same side as the carb)
-The pipe should also be right up against the clynder, not 1/8" down from the cylinder
-and the rod besides being switched around so the end faces in needs to be screwed down into it's socket on the fork more. I tried this on the boat(not too bright) but as the threads are really gummed up and the rod has some flex it would only go a 1/4" into the fok before it started feeling like I was forcing it and I didn't want to strip anything or break the cast fitting, Off the boat it's of course considerably easier and can easily screw in another 3/8 to 1/2"

All easy to do with the motor off the boat

[Mutineer]

Oh yes
Is this nasty looking gasket original?
All the ones I've had have had the reddish plastic one
When I start the motor on the boat lots of tiny droplets of 140/water mix surface around the leg.

[Mutineer]

heck!
No takers
I went and did all the clutch adjustments I outlined above and it seems to lock in nicely now
Thanks all for the helpful input

Any comments on the manky old sodden lower end gasket (see pictures)
Should it be a solid plastic job

And the fine droplets of 140 and water mixture I'm seeing on startup..Is that normal for an older unit or is it worn out lower end seals? Is it related to the aforementioned manky gasket
I seem to rember the older ones not having seals, thus the 140 oil, yes? no?

[Stelios_Rjk]

Hi,

Those gearboxes don't have seals, that's way 140 gearbox oil is used. In case you have leaks you can use 250 gearbox oil without any problems.

About the gasket (gearbox to water pump housing), on those models is used a gasket made of gasket paper 0.25mm thick. So the correct one is used. Other models indeed use thicker gaskets around 3mm thickness. From what I see you may have a worn bevel pinion bush. This bush/bearing is located under the pump rotor. Maybe some gearbox oil leaks to the pump rotor, then it goes through the cooling system and it ends in the sea. Another thing that leads to this hypothesis is that the gasket (gearbox to water pump housing) seems to be soaked in gearbox oil. So apart from gearbox oil running in the cooling system, maybe some of is leaks straight through this gasket.

Of course all of this things are usual things for Seagulls and you should not worry unless you see free play on the bevel pinion bearing around 2mm or more. The gasket can be replaced easily by the time the bolts, holding the gearbox and the water pump housing together, are able to come off. But this gasket won't solve the problem. You can change it by the time you will check for free play on the bevel pinion.


Questions to verify or invalidate those things above.

1. Do you see gearbox oil leaking from the holes that the gearbox sucks water to feed the cooling system, when the engine lyes down?

2. Do you see gearbox oil leaking from any other point from the gearbox?

3. Is there any free play on the propeller shaft?

[Mutineer]

hmm
Thanks thats good information
I don't have noticeable play in my propellor shaft
But I do have 140 leaking out the water intakes when I flip the motor over
Im ight've also overfilled it when I first got the motor
The previous owner had tried 90 weight and he found it was really leaking(surprise!)
It was pretty well empty when I got it

[Stelios_Rjk]

hmm
But I do have 140 leaking out the water intakes when I flip the motor over

Welcome, happy to help!
The quote above indicates a worn bevel pinion bearing. Since 90 was used it may run with weak lubrication for a while. That eats the bearings
Removing the water pump housing you will see the rotor mounted on the higher end of the pinion. You check for sideways play. If it's not too much you just replace the gasket and use thicker oil. 250 is fine or even higher grade. For such occasions or on older wartime engines, I mix oil (140) with cheap yellow grease. But that includes a risk. The grease should be soluble to the oil and you should form a mix closer to the properties of oil. I mean not too thick.

[Mutineer]

Can I really use 250 weight in the bottom end of a seagull??

[Mutineer]

I took the bottom end off..quite funny actually as the gasket seems to be made of an old boot sole or something similiar.
Very definitely leather, quite poorly cut (goes underneath the rotor) and with the original small nail holes in it
I found it interesting that on this model the rotor is a seperate peice from the drive shaft and mets, cool.

I don't notice any appreciable play in the shaft at all. I would say none, it feels very firm, yet rotates freely

[Mutineer]

Another connundrum I just noticed in my late night seagull tinkering:
All my other seagulls have had the gear oil plastic filler plug on the top part of the end cap.
My 102 has it on the bottom, is it supposed to be that way or is my end cap on upside down,,and is that possible?