Saving Old Seagulls

Hi Hugz,

It's a very special and expensive one.. I think I cannot reveal my secrets





Oh well OK, I will share my technique. When I have to bend a pipe like this I start going around my workshop or even my home.
When I find something with the correct diameter I stop. Go back to the engine and see if the diameter is fine regarding to what I want to make.
Then I grab the copper pipe, turn it around the object I have found, cut the ends with the trial and error method, maybe some more free bending by hands and that's all.
Then soldering and straight to the platter.

I also destroyed a piece of pipe trying to make this fuel line as the last time I made one was some time ago.

Ah yes, a highly sophisticated procedure Good to see it doesn't flatten out. I've heard if you fill with sand or frozen water it can prevent collapse. Might go and experiment.

Yes, sand or ice. I have tried with ice but it melts too fast. Sand with the ends blocked should be the best idea. But I do it without any filling.

Around here you can buy a kit with the three common copper tubing sizes for about $10. Consists of wound springs about 25cm in length with flared ends. Slide copper tubing in, bend, and remove.

Screwfix small pipe bending tool. While sizes are not exact it'll cater nicely for fuel pipe; strangely the radius of the bend is about right, too.

And they're cheap.

Hi guys,

I got the parts from the platter

You know what happens next!!!

Ouch my eyes, where are my sunglasses! Very shiny looking forward to seeing the outboard back together again.

Cheers Pat

There was some progress today!



(tiller drying hanged on the nearby spark plug!)



Now the difficult things, tank restoration saving the original decal and finding the correct ignition.

B

One word: WOW!

I think I did something today


.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

You really do some detailed work... My engines are much more utilitarian I strive to make them as true as possible, with some exceptions in studs and bolts, and to have them run reliably which for me means they must run for 8 hours or so with out attention. I have no hand for the detailed painting and tend to be too impatient to attempt the work although I do paint were required. If lucky enough to get the origin decals I keep them as is.. In comparison my completed restored motors to your beauties are the before version of the super model!!!

Great stuff mate!! I shall strive to do better

AJ

Are you paying attention Jeremy!
(shh you and i know what were talking about here)



excellent work so far Stelios. I'm keen to see how things progress from here.


jon

What sort of condition was the drive tube when you handed it over to the plater? I am interested on the amount of pitting corrosion that can be cleaned up and plated.
I have one that was replated sometime in the past but the plating was over old chrome and bare pitted steel and is simply peeling off.

AJ

Thank you guys!
The drive shaft was in rather good condition. But the plater is supposed to remove with chemicals the previous layer of chrome and apply the new one. Pitting should be also removed with rotary brush as much as possible. If pitting is deep you can't avoid signs after platting.