FV 15020

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seagull101
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FV 15020

Post by seagull101 »

Got her running today! Runs like a sewing machine and runs better than my SD!
started 1st pull after a points and carb clean, hasn't been run for 15 years!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLuIbQr ... e=youtu.be

Jacob
tambikeboy
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Re: FV 15020

Post by tambikeboy »

Nice one jacob keep it chappin....
Roll me up and smoke me when I die
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Gannet
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Re: FV 15020

Post by Gannet »

Well done Jacob,

It is a great feeling to start an engine on first pull that hasn't run for years. Yes, they run relatively smoothly. And I suspect quieter than any other. Great to know that another FV is in good working order.
Keep an eye on the oil in the gearbox - fill it right up when the engine is laid down.
I reckon that FV/FVPs are the best starters. I find that there is no reason to 'tickle' them - that just seems to introduce another variable. It will probably start first pull most times.
What are your plans for this one?
Could you please give me its flywheel date. Is the carb a 7/16" and with a throttle stop? My Notes for the Data Sheet will explain that.

Jeremy
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seagull101
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Re: FV 15020

Post by seagull101 »

Cheers Jeremy and tam,
From memory i think that the date is 3/52 but i will check tomorrow and yes its the small carb with throttle stop.
I filled up the gearbox just before filming that but it does leak a little.

This one will stay original as its in such good condition.

Jacob
Gannet
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Re: FV 15020

Post by Gannet »

Thanks Jacob,
Yes, if it is original and working, there is a lot to be said for not stripping it down. Although it might be worth dropping the gearbox off, for cleaning, painting and greasing the drive shaft. The shafts can seize onto the bevel pinion through lack of grease and internally fill up with rust and crud. These early 40s had a thinner section drive shaft which after 60+ years could do with a bit of attention. I would be interested in whether it has a bronze or aluminium impeller.
Don't worry about the gearbox leaking a bit. Invariably the bevel shaft bearing will be worn. The important thing, I believe, is to drain all the oil emulsion off before storage and fill right up with new oil. Doing this will ensure that any water in contact with the bevel shaft will be displaced.
What I do later when the emulsion has separated out into layers, is to heat up the top layer in a pan, until the water is driven off. The oil will then revert to looking like oil, (although a bit darker), instead of the custard colour emulsion. I then reuse this oil. It has been pointed out to me that any salt will not be driven off. I am not convinced that this has any detrimental effect when there is no water present.

Thanks for the info on the carb. Does it have a drain hole in the float chamber bowl?

Jeremy
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Nudge
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Re: FV 15020

Post by Nudge »

It has been pointed out to me that any salt will not be driven off. I am not convinced that this has any detrimental effect when there is no water present.
So are you happy putting a 1/4 of a teaspoon of kitchen salt in your gear box before you fill it with oil?
"THE KING OF BLING"!
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Gannet
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Re: FV 15020

Post by Gannet »

Thanks for your comments/concern, Nudge. It is not the same as putting salt crystals into the oil.

The effect of putting salt crystals into oil would depend on whether they dissolve into the oil or remain as crystals. Would they dissolve? If they don't dissolve they might be abrasive, but I have no idea how hard/abrasive common salt crystals are. As water enters the gearbox, the salt could possibly dissolve.

Is your 1/4 of a teaspoon about 2 grams? If an F/FV/LM gearbox of 70ml capacity was 100% full of seawater the amount of dissolved salt would be 2.5g. I am not a chemist, but I believe that this salt exists as Sodium and Chlorine ions, which will not have any significant abrasive characteristics.

It is difficult to determine how much seawater is absorbed into the oil in normal use to form the classic custard colour emulsion. Simple tests that I have conducted indicate, with the oil that I am using, that about 25% of the emulsion consists of water.
When the emulsion is left to stand for a few weeks, the top layer looses its custard colour to become more 'oily' looking. How much sea water is left in this layer, I am not sure, but probably significantly less than 25%. This is the layer that I boil.
So after boiling off the water, this oil only introduces less than 0.5g of salt and that might exist as ions in the oil.

Another way of looking at it is consider how long one leaves a gearbox with emulsion inside before draining it. If indeed any quantity of dissolved salt is very harmful, then one ought to drain it immediately after use. I do not subscribe to that view.

Jeremy
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Hugz
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Re: FV 15020

Post by Hugz »

Nudge wrote:So are you happy putting a 1/4 of a teaspoon of kitchen salt in your gear box before you fill it with oil?
Add an egg yolk and a squeeze of lemon juice and you will have Mayonnaise. Perfect for your salad after a day on the river. A teaspoon of Dijon mustard gives it a bit of a bight. Seagull... the alternative to a kitchen wizz. It is also a kettle and if it is an 102 remove the water pipe exhaust end and partially block the water intake and you can steam up a cappuccino. :lol:
Gannet
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Re: FV 15020

Post by Gannet »

Hugz,
Yes, the mixture did remind me of Dijon mustard. Although I will say SAE140 freshly washed with sea water has a certain tang to it - it just needs something extra, perhaps a few sub micron slivers of hardened and tempered EN24 teeth (or whatever was the spec)! This should just give it a bit of metallic strength to the taste!

Jeremy
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Re: FV 15020

Post by tambikeboy »

:lol: :lol: 100% entertainment china's
Roll me up and smoke me when I die
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
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