D9666 restoration

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JERSEYMAN
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by JERSEYMAN »

Well, my C1933 has slotted brass core plugs on the cylinder, low inlet stub, a plain flat top ignition without any writing on, brass bayonet tank, straight back exhaust with a nipple on the housing as well as a nippled gearbox with bow tie prop,
What is original, who knows.
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charlesp
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by charlesp »

The bow tie prop was introduced to go with the sub ejector exhaust. Everything else sounds exactly right.

There only ever was a slotted brass core plug before the pressed metal ones. Core plugs that are hexagonal, have fine threads etc are later additions or replacements
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Jan
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by Jan »

Sorry Charles but I don't agree about the core plugs.

All my pre 1950 102 engines have the hexagonal core plugs and my early 1950's 102 engines have the slotted core plugs.

The early pre 1950 102 model brochures shows also the hexagon plugs.

Jan
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Jan
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by Jan »

image.jpg
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headdownarseup
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by headdownarseup »

Jan you've beat me to it!
i was just going to say have a look at the advert but you've done it.

spot on. even though if you look REALLY CLOSELY at the pics, this is an AC but still pretty close for the years.


sorry charles but i'm with Jan on this. :)
headdownarseup
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by headdownarseup »

I had a hunch that i might just be on the right track with this?

I think it might be interesting if Jan could shed some light on these "early" 102's as he seems to be the oracle of knowledge with all things seagull related (especially pre 1950 motors) :wink:







told you this would get interesting!
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charlesp
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by charlesp »

Excellent - thank you Jan!
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Charles uk
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by Charles uk »

What's an AC doing with a SD style gearbox?

Is this is Seagull saving money with their artwork again.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
headdownarseup
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by headdownarseup »

JERSEYMAN
who knows what's right and wrong,
your motor has bowtie prop-mine has SD high rake prop
your motor has brass tank- mine has steel
your motor has slotted plugs-mine DID HAVE hex head plugs but now slotted (see blown engine block previously)
basically both motors have the same gearbox (from an SD or SDP) with straight out back exhaust

On the face of it the mid to late 1940's would appear to be an "interesting" time period .
I'm still sticking with my theory that BS were using up left over bits from the WAR motors.

hopefully we can get this kind of sorted out eventually but there are a lot of grey areas it would seem?


all very interesting stuff.
maybe Hugo could tell us what's on his "D". prop,tank, thumb throttle, gearbox etc.
it might be good to try and get something that is "common" to all the known "c" and "d" models and work from there.

So far, all of this resto job has been based on the pictures that JAN has uploaded.(thanx again JAN)
At the end of the day, its an old seagull with an unusual history that was probably only made for 2 years at most, unless someone has anything else they'd like to add that may be usefull.

as always, all input is gratefully received.
if nothing else it makes for an interesting topic!

jon
headdownarseup
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by headdownarseup »

any how whilst you lot have been arguing about core plugs
i've been busy putting gearboxes back together.
swapped out the prop bush and found a better gear set. i will put this together and put it to one side till i can get to the welding suppliers for some supplies (gas and wire)
next job the powerhead.
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headdownarseup
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by headdownarseup »

just before i put this to one side there's a couple of questions.

there's a big gap between the collar and prop shaft. originally it had 4 flat washers to take up the slack, but i was thinking of using a grit seal as found on the 40's and 100's and 2 or 3 flat washers. the thrust washer is fitted inside and the backlash on the gears seems ok. any suggestions?

also there's an "extra" hole that probably shouldn't be there on the pump cavity. probably a running repair carried out years ago in the vain attempt to get more water to flow through a "deceased" block. (and look what happened there!)
if everybody is in agreement i will fill this hole with weld.

lastly its got a serial number on the casing which reads 163. any ideas?
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Jan
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by Jan »

There are no washers between the collar and gearhousing/bushing on a direct drive gearbox.

Adjusting the backlash of the gears is done by adding shims inside the gearbox between the steel thrust washer and crownwheel.

The (serial) number on the gear housing and end cap is to keep the 2 parts together during assembling in the factory.

Most of the early and AC/AD gearboxes have those serial numbers.
P3020195.JPG

Jan
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Jan
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by Jan »

headdownarseup wrote:
So far, all of this resto job has been based on the pictures that JAN has uploaded.(thanx again JAN)
At the end of the day, its an old seagull with an unusual history that was probably only made for 2 years at most, unless someone has anything else they'd like to add that may be usefull.
The picture of the brochure comes from the SOS site and is from Skyetoyman of the forum.

Jan
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JERSEYMAN
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by JERSEYMAN »

Interesting thread, time for a cool one though
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headdownarseup
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Re: D9666 restoration

Post by headdownarseup »

thanks jan

yes i have studied these pictures many times and this is what i am basing this restoration on.

gearbox end cap does not have a serial number?
the end cap being secured by studs and nuts, would this have been original or a later "fix".
i do have some proper screws to go back in just in case!


with regards to setting the backlash on gears, the thrustwasher and shims are already fitted. my concern was that there is a large gap between the collar and casing. maybe the gearbox had a change of propshaft (slightly longer than normal) at some point with a newer model (a running repair) hence why the holes that are drilled in the shaft to accept the collar dont align correctly. i could drill another hole slightly closer to correct this so it "looks" right.


jon
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