Carb for FVP

[winter]

Friends, yesterday I was happy to get the FVP in my shed.

It looks very good, not too rusty, just dusty. Tank is a bit dented.
It has good spark, so ignition works.
First things to do and ask you all are:
1. bringing back the tiller to the original one we plan to make a stub by tapping a thread in the sawed stub and screw a tiller on it with a bolt.
As Gannet wrote with a lenght of 5,5". But what diameter should I have and which material to use? Aluminium?
2. Make a fuel line like the origin. Is that aluminium too? Or is this still available on SOS? Could't find it.
3. Finding the right carb. I think the carb of my second SJM will fit, but is that the same as the original?

Below some pictures:

And below a picture of the carb on my SJM:
Is this the right one or should I have another one?

[Keith.P]

The fuel line is plated copper, find an original brass tiller with original handle and cut to length, I don't think any parts are available on this motor anymore.
Original tiller has a brass split pin holding it onto the stub.
I can post pictures of original motor if needed for fabrication.
Its pretty much complete though.

[Oyster 49]

Evert, I have an original small bracket for fitting a tiller to the crankcase for one of those engines that you can have, it might be better than drilling into the crankcase to secure the tiller? Another option would be to make a new stub and get it welded on of course, but the heat could cause distortion to the cases...

Engines with that tiller arrangement fitted to a bracket had a "T" at the end of the serial number and the stub was cut off.

[Gannet]

It looks like the tiller locating stub has been (intentionally?) broken off.
I think Oyster suggestion of converting it to a tilting tiller with the small steel bracket fixed to the crankcase is the easiest route to follow. There are quite a few original tilting tiller FVs and FVPs in which the 'T' suffix has not been added, so I don't think that matters much, unless originality is of very great concern to you.
Out of interest your photo of the broken stub clearly shows the web on the upper crankcase directly above the broken stub which is not present on the earlier FV/FVPs. I think that this web was added to stiffen up that area - possibly to overcome any problem when the stub tiller was being used as a carrying handle.
The tillers are brass. Approx diameters are 0.875" outside and 0.750" inside.
i think that FV tilting tiller lengths are 10". I would have thought that FVPs would be the same, but I have no evidence of that.
Jeremy

[winter]

Thans for all your advices and offers to help me. I appreciate that very much.
I will first try to fix it as original as possible.
Comparing several pictures it seems to me that the stub is not broken or sawed, but just filled with malleable steel.
I found this picture and this gives me the idea that I must re-open it?

Below the picture of my FVP.

image.jpg (43.6 KiB) Viewed 699 times

Comparing them I see no missing stub on my engine. Am I wrong? Still a seagull rookie.

Does anyone have the carb and the fuel line for sale?
As Keith told it must be a Villiers without a hole in the choke shutter.

Evert

[Stelios_Rjk]

What you see I suppose is the cast aluminum from where the stub snapped off. Have a look at the picture below. You can see the stub, on it the tiller is fitted.

[winter]

Thanks, now I see it. We need to mount a stub on it.
My son in law is mechanicien and thinks he can fix it.
He wants to tap a thread in it and screw a stub on it with a bolt.
Then it should be possible to put a tiller in it with a pin.

I hope it works and will let you know via this forum.

But now the carb. Should it really be the Villier without the hole in the chokeshutter?

Evert

[Gannet]

Evert,

I admire your determination to restore this FVP to its original stub tiller configuration.

With regard to the carb:- I am very sure (but not 100% sure - who really knows what happened in Poole in 1954?) that the original
Villiers carb specification was:-

1. The main venturi bore is 7/16" instead of the later 1/2".
2. There is a throttlle slide stop on the top cap.
3. The choke shutter does not have a hole through the middle.
4. The float chamber bowl does not have the small drain hole near the top.

If originality is important to you then that is the correct carb.

However, it might be that a later (non-original) 1/2" carb with a hole in the choke shutter performs and starts better (or perhaps worse). I don't know and I do not feel qualified to comment.
If you want to use a 1/2" carb, I am sure that you would get very sound technical advice from this site, including from Keith, Charles and Oyster.
Good luck with your project.

Jeremy

[Keith.P]

It definitely looks like its been broken off, if it had been as is from seagull, it would have been machined and rounded off.
Its good to see that you want to put it back to original.

[winter]

So, beyond repairing the tillerstub I will have to search for the original carb.
I hope it is in the store of SOS.
And I will search the web.

As I need more spares like a propellor for a 1960 SJM and several parts for my FV I have quite a job to do.

[Oyster 49]

Evert, which parts do you need for your FV?

[Oyster 49]

I imagine Evert's proposed repair will look like this, The crank could be mounted on a 90 angle piece bolted to a faceplate, the stub face skimmed flat and a small counter bore to take the new tiller stub machined out, then a short tapped hole to mount in the new stub. If there is not enough to drill out for a bolt hole then the new stub could be epoxied in?

Interesting little project!

[winter]

Yes, you are right with this scheme. This is the way we (my son in law, picture) want to try to fix it.

We will tap a screw-thread (is that English??) for a bolt of 8-10 mm. Not deeper then 10 mm.
De rest according your scheme. Thanks for that nice piece of drawingwork.
I hope it will work.
I intend to losen the tiller when transporting the engine, avoiding the risk to pick it up with the tiler which could break.

As for the FV I will make a list of parts I need.
I think we just have the engineblock, ingintion,flywheel, crankcase, shaft and a part of the lower end.
But, a FV it is. I swapped it together with a 1950 SJM (repaired now)for a good working SJP, which we had double.
Everybody happy.

Greets from a very sunny Netherlands. I am looking forward to put my boat (ancient steel "vlet") into the water and go boating with one of the seagulls.
Evert

[Oyster 49]

Hi Evert,

So more like this then? I'm sure that will work well, as you say you must take precautions not to strain the new stub. I have a spares FVP, but no carb or tiller I'm afraid. Let me know if you need anything else and I will see whats left.

[headdownarseup]

hi evert
with regards to the carburetter, have you tried the normal villiers carb 1/2" but on the needle jet turn the small screw down 1-2 turns down from the top, this will adjust the mixture a little. the 7/8" carburetter that the fv has as normal is difficult to locate.
i have an fv myself which does not have the hole in the choke shutter but starts very easily. it does have the correct 7/8" carb though.
trial and error maybe

regards jon