The best way to get back home
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
- Stelios_Rjk
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
-
- Posts: 2838
- Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 8:42 pm
- Location: Surrey
Re: The best way to get back home
must be your Birthday Stelios.
H-A
H-A
- Stelios_Rjk
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
Re: The best way to get back home
OK I couldn't resist, could I?
What I did find. Ignition is a later one and the flywheel hits the coil's ears making and awful noise. Flywheel is also rubbing on stator's plate flange. The crankshaft or the crankcase must be a bit different leading to no clearance between the stator plate and the flywheel. Some grease on the magnets and a 0.1mm of copper sheet between the crankshaft and the flywheel set a nice clearance between the stator plate and the flywheel.
Then I add some diesel in the powerhead through the carb stub in order to clean any debris inside the crankcase and the bore. Some gentle turns and then just some turns.
And the smoke bomb is ready to set off! Always some diesel will remain if not removed from the carb stub and gets burned with the fuel. Apart from the smoke (and I mean a lot of smoke) it also smells like burning/frying oil!
I also wanted to check what's going on with the gearbox but the plug wasn't coming off. Blowtorch and the usual stuff. I found some dry gearbox oil. I remove some but not a lot through the gearbox plug hole. Then I fill it with diesel and run the engine for a couple of minutes. Removed the sludge created. Repeat and I finally filled it with SAE 140.
Well yes the engine did run and I also have a reading on the coil. It looks like a freshwater engine as the carb has no corrosion. I also haven't found the white corrosion that aluminum creates. The transom has the color of brass, not green. Some chrome is missing but not in a way that the water level could be defined, it's like lying in a shed and the upper sides of the tubes get corroded. I also found a needle No2 in the carb (7/16 throat) so I swap it before running her on 1:10. The decal is in great shape and I think I will leave this tank as is. What else? The serial is FV 19309 and the gearbox is correct with the holes to suck cooling water. A lot of water is coming out of the water jacket outlet. No high temperatures and a lot of compression.
Oh and the most important. The gearbox cap screws has the original plating and no corrosion. They also came off with a little effort. Could this engine haven't been used or someone just replaced the ignition with the wrong one and then just let it in the shed? Who knows..
Nope, it's not my birthday, I was waiting to receive the parcel. Family called and let me know that it was received so I thought it would be nice to turn on the camera and..
Now I am looking for the correct stator plate or a set of plate and flywheel. I could remove and place to another plate the coil etc. If anyone could help
What I did find. Ignition is a later one and the flywheel hits the coil's ears making and awful noise. Flywheel is also rubbing on stator's plate flange. The crankshaft or the crankcase must be a bit different leading to no clearance between the stator plate and the flywheel. Some grease on the magnets and a 0.1mm of copper sheet between the crankshaft and the flywheel set a nice clearance between the stator plate and the flywheel.
Then I add some diesel in the powerhead through the carb stub in order to clean any debris inside the crankcase and the bore. Some gentle turns and then just some turns.
And the smoke bomb is ready to set off! Always some diesel will remain if not removed from the carb stub and gets burned with the fuel. Apart from the smoke (and I mean a lot of smoke) it also smells like burning/frying oil!
I also wanted to check what's going on with the gearbox but the plug wasn't coming off. Blowtorch and the usual stuff. I found some dry gearbox oil. I remove some but not a lot through the gearbox plug hole. Then I fill it with diesel and run the engine for a couple of minutes. Removed the sludge created. Repeat and I finally filled it with SAE 140.
Well yes the engine did run and I also have a reading on the coil. It looks like a freshwater engine as the carb has no corrosion. I also haven't found the white corrosion that aluminum creates. The transom has the color of brass, not green. Some chrome is missing but not in a way that the water level could be defined, it's like lying in a shed and the upper sides of the tubes get corroded. I also found a needle No2 in the carb (7/16 throat) so I swap it before running her on 1:10. The decal is in great shape and I think I will leave this tank as is. What else? The serial is FV 19309 and the gearbox is correct with the holes to suck cooling water. A lot of water is coming out of the water jacket outlet. No high temperatures and a lot of compression.
Oh and the most important. The gearbox cap screws has the original plating and no corrosion. They also came off with a little effort. Could this engine haven't been used or someone just replaced the ignition with the wrong one and then just let it in the shed? Who knows..
Hi H-A,Horsley-Anarak wrote:must be your Birthday Stelios.
H-A
Nope, it's not my birthday, I was waiting to receive the parcel. Family called and let me know that it was received so I thought it would be nice to turn on the camera and..
Now I am looking for the correct stator plate or a set of plate and flywheel. I could remove and place to another plate the coil etc. If anyone could help
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
- davecarole
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:58 am
- Location: uxbridge, london
Re: The best way to get back home
hi Stelios, enjoy this lovely old lady
it was me you outbid and i am so pleased it went to a good home where it will be used
and it has not ended its life in bits on Ebay
dave
it was me you outbid and i am so pleased it went to a good home where it will be used
and it has not ended its life in bits on Ebay
dave
- Stelios_Rjk
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
Re: The best way to get back home
Oh I am sorry about that Dave, at least you guys up there have more chances on engines than me down here.
I doubt if this engine will ever see saltwater ( we have almost only saltwater). I will restore her and run her once in a while in the wheely bin.
But you know what's the most tempting of all? Undoing the shaft's housing from the water pump housing to apply some antiseize compound. That's the challenge! We will see!
I doubt if this engine will ever see saltwater ( we have almost only saltwater). I will restore her and run her once in a while in the wheely bin.
But you know what's the most tempting of all? Undoing the shaft's housing from the water pump housing to apply some antiseize compound. That's the challenge! We will see!
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
-
- Posts: 2484
- Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2013 2:26 pm
- Location: bristol
Re: The best way to get back home
STELIOS
i think it might be time to change the water in your bin?
add a little detergent to the water (not too much or you will end up with loads of bubbles)
it just keeps those water jackets a bit cleaner.
jon
i think it might be time to change the water in your bin?
add a little detergent to the water (not too much or you will end up with loads of bubbles)
it just keeps those water jackets a bit cleaner.
jon
- Stelios_Rjk
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
Re: The best way to get back home
Well I should remove the film on the surface, underneath is still fine, but I will do that, it's a bit disgusting!
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4955
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: The best way to get back home
Many Seagull owners swear by that mess in the test tank, as it soaks the water jacket corrosion in oil & they feel it slows down future rust build up.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
- Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4183
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
Re: The best way to get back home
Totally Cool S!!!!!!!
B
B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
Re: The best way to get back home
My house floats in the test tank.
Nice FV Stellios, don't forget to turn the gearbox end cap 180 degrees.
The FV is the nicest small Seagull outboard and one of my favorites.
Jan
Nice FV Stellios, don't forget to turn the gearbox end cap 180 degrees.
The FV is the nicest small Seagull outboard and one of my favorites.
Jan
- Stelios_Rjk
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
Re: The best way to get back home
Thanks B
Sure I will rotate the cap Jan. Yesterday I was in a hurry to test it so I didn't bother to rotate it.
Indeed beloved little engines!
Sure I will rotate the cap Jan. Yesterday I was in a hurry to test it so I didn't bother to rotate it.
Indeed beloved little engines!
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
Re: The best way to get back home
Nice one stelios, lovely little engine. Apart from the SD I think the FVs are one of the best engines to own. Enjoy.
I might be able to help you with a complete magneto from a FVP. When I get home in a weeks time and I catch up I will let you know.
A.
I might be able to help you with a complete magneto from a FVP. When I get home in a weeks time and I catch up I will let you know.
A.
- Stelios_Rjk
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
Re: The best way to get back home
Hi Oyster,
It's been some time, I hope everything is fine. Thanks for having a look for me, much appreciated!
Well the thing that will follow I don't know whether is beginners' luck or what..!
The usual bet, will the drive shaft tube come off? The first signs were more than promising. Those two pictures that follows are as found, I didn't sweep anything.
Also the screws that holds the water pump housing came off easily.
Blow torch and bingo!!!
Relief!
Now everything else is OK to deal with.
Some conclusions are that the engine had some use during it's life. But certainly it's a freshwater one. I found a lot of goo in the exhaust. The leg was surprisingly clean. Someone should have done a service or something as the gearbox cap was fitted upside down and with no gasket. Now I fitted a gasket, RTV and it's drying.
About restoration, I feel I don't want to make this one in an as new condition. The decal on the tank is very good. I don't want to remove it and fit the one I got from John. So I am thinking about a "half" restoration. The tubes will go to be chromed but I think I will leave the aluminum parts not shined, only with a good cleaning.
But what about the tank? Any ideas? I don't want to touch the decal but obviously some paint is gone.
It's been some time, I hope everything is fine. Thanks for having a look for me, much appreciated!
Well the thing that will follow I don't know whether is beginners' luck or what..!
The usual bet, will the drive shaft tube come off? The first signs were more than promising. Those two pictures that follows are as found, I didn't sweep anything.
Also the screws that holds the water pump housing came off easily.
Blow torch and bingo!!!
Relief!
Now everything else is OK to deal with.
Some conclusions are that the engine had some use during it's life. But certainly it's a freshwater one. I found a lot of goo in the exhaust. The leg was surprisingly clean. Someone should have done a service or something as the gearbox cap was fitted upside down and with no gasket. Now I fitted a gasket, RTV and it's drying.
About restoration, I feel I don't want to make this one in an as new condition. The decal on the tank is very good. I don't want to remove it and fit the one I got from John. So I am thinking about a "half" restoration. The tubes will go to be chromed but I think I will leave the aluminum parts not shined, only with a good cleaning.
But what about the tank? Any ideas? I don't want to touch the decal but obviously some paint is gone.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
Re: The best way to get back home
Stelios,
I have just come back from a week or so boating and out of contact with the internet.
Its a great FV that you have there - it looks and sounds really nice. I think they are excellent engines on small dinghies. I have been using FV2821 for the past week on a 10ft dinghy - very smooth and realatively quiet.
A few interesting points:-
1. It seems that the canted oval tank was more common (or perhaps the only tank available?) for late FVs.
2. The petrol pipe. I think just the early/mid FV/FVPs had the double loop. I wonder when the plastic pipe replaced the metal pipe? After all this FV was produced when the majority ( I think) of the 40 series were the LS (with the plastic pipe)?
3. The magneto cover. Does anybody know when the plain one was replaced by the 'In' one?
Please let me know the details of the carb. Is it a 7/16" and does it have a throttle stop and does it have a bowl drain hole in the side? I presume the choke does not have a hole?
Lucky fella - well done!
Jeremy
I have just come back from a week or so boating and out of contact with the internet.
Its a great FV that you have there - it looks and sounds really nice. I think they are excellent engines on small dinghies. I have been using FV2821 for the past week on a 10ft dinghy - very smooth and realatively quiet.
A few interesting points:-
1. It seems that the canted oval tank was more common (or perhaps the only tank available?) for late FVs.
2. The petrol pipe. I think just the early/mid FV/FVPs had the double loop. I wonder when the plastic pipe replaced the metal pipe? After all this FV was produced when the majority ( I think) of the 40 series were the LS (with the plastic pipe)?
3. The magneto cover. Does anybody know when the plain one was replaced by the 'In' one?
Please let me know the details of the carb. Is it a 7/16" and does it have a throttle stop and does it have a bowl drain hole in the side? I presume the choke does not have a hole?
Lucky fella - well done!
Jeremy
Re: The best way to get back home
Stelios,
I have just come back from a week or so boating and out of contact with the internet.
Its a great FV that you have there - it looks and sounds really nice. I think they are excellent engines on small dinghies. I have been using FV2821 for the past week on a 10ft dinghy - very smooth and realatively quiet.
A few interesting points:-
1. It seems that the canted oval tank was more common (or perhaps the only tank available?) for late FVs.
2. The petrol pipe. I think just the early/mid FV/FVPs had the double loop. I wonder when the plastic pipe replaced the metal pipe? After all this FV was produced when the majority ( I think) of the 40 series were the LS (with the plastic pipe)?
3. The magneto cover. Does anybody know when the plain one was replaced by the 'In' one?
Please let me know the details of the carb. Is it a 7/16" and does it have a throttle stop and does it have a bowl drain hole in the side? I presume the choke does not have a hole?
Lucky fella - well done!
Jeremy
I have just come back from a week or so boating and out of contact with the internet.
Its a great FV that you have there - it looks and sounds really nice. I think they are excellent engines on small dinghies. I have been using FV2821 for the past week on a 10ft dinghy - very smooth and realatively quiet.
A few interesting points:-
1. It seems that the canted oval tank was more common (or perhaps the only tank available?) for late FVs.
2. The petrol pipe. I think just the early/mid FV/FVPs had the double loop. I wonder when the plastic pipe replaced the metal pipe? After all this FV was produced when the majority ( I think) of the 40 series were the LS (with the plastic pipe)?
3. The magneto cover. Does anybody know when the plain one was replaced by the 'In' one?
Please let me know the details of the carb. Is it a 7/16" and does it have a throttle stop and does it have a bowl drain hole in the side? I presume the choke does not have a hole?
Lucky fella - well done!
Jeremy