Techno fantasy land

pistnbroke · Post by **pistnbroke** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 7:26 am

all gone and SOS returned to normal techno fantasy land status ..everyone happy now ...

Vic · Post by **Vic** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:01 pm

You have tested a coil core from a non starting engine and found it to be magnetised?

You have confirmed that the magnets have not lost their magnetism?

You have subjected it to the drill spinning treatment and found that when restored to starting condition the coil core is no longer magnetised?

pistnbroke · Post by **pistnbroke** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 10:18 pm

Vic · Post by **Vic** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:06 pm

You are missing the point vic

No.
The point is than on the SOS website there is a detailed explanation of how the spinning technique restores the magnetism to magnets. I know that magnets do lose their magnetism over time so the explanation on the website seems quite reasonable.

Now out of the blue along comes someone else with a totally different explanation for them not starting and a totally different explanation of why the spinning trick works.

How does someone like me with limited technical knowledge of such things know which one is correct?

Had you replied to my questions by confirming that you had tested the coil core and found it to be magnetised, that the magnets were still OK and that the spinning trick did demagnetise the coil core all doubt would be removed but I thought the coil core would have been made of "soft iron" which I seem to remember from my distant school days could not be permanently magnetized

Equally of course if the author of the article on the website cares to put his head above the parapet I will ask him if he has tested the strength of the magnets before and after spinning.

As it is we now have two theories and not a shred of evidence supporting one in favour of the other

pistnbroke · Post by **pistnbroke** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:54 am

goldote · Post by **goldote** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:12 am

What would happen if you used a 12 volt trolling motor battery?

Vic · Post by **Vic** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:09 pm

What would happen if you used a 12 volt trolling motor battery

You might burn the coil out with 12 volts!. Very likely IMHO

timberman2004 · Post by **timberman2004** » Sun Sep 21, 2008 12:26 am

ahhh... the RIGHT thread

hmmmm..... a very arcane discussion ...

all I know is that the drill technique works ...and very grateful I am that it does

struggling with a wartime SD basket case, bent, bolloxed, buggered, abused and basically f**ked ...the joy of spinning up a lifeless magneto on the drill and getting a truly magnificent crackly spark ....well, just about all I needed

a huge smile, knowing that when fully re-assembled, tidy, and pretty,.. she WILL run ....another properly functioning 'rescue'

Collector Inspector · Post by **Collector Inspector** » Sun Nov 09, 2008 9:52 am

From an earlier post.

Regards

C.I.

Geoff R Wright

Joined: 22 Mar 2008
Posts: 2
Location: Bodmin Moor,Cornwall

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:09 pm Post subject: Starting Old Seagulls Reply with quote
Hi All,

I found this wonderful site more in error than trial, and wanted to publicly thank John for saving me cash - twice over!

I have a 1976 Silver Century Long Shaft, which stopped working about 12 years ago. I got a local engineer to check it over, which he did (but I can't remember how much for). However, I never started the motor again, mainly due to purchasing another boat with an inboard diesel.

I had decided to sell the Seagull (possibly on EBay (!!!), and a couple of weeks ago I thought I'd try and start it. It's been in the garage all these years. Well, needless to say, nothing happened - no spark! Somehow I stumbled upon S.O.S, and found reference to starting Seagulls with an electric drill (??).

Armed with this new info, I turned a shaft on a piece of half inch brass, found a suitable socket, and after 4 or 5 minutes there was a beautiful spark. I mounted the motor on our gate, with the prop in a large water butt, and pulled the rope. First time starter!!

So, thanks John, for saving me money on (a) another repair job that almost certainly would have cost lots, for the 'engineer' doing very little work, and (b) for now deciding to keep hold of my classic Seagull, which, it appears, is probably worth much more than I thought. And, no, it's not for sale!

Geoff (in Cornwall)

Post by **Charles uk** » Sun Nov 09, 2008 12:03 pm

John, the other Charles & I, have had, on numerous occasions the conversation on where the problem lies & why the electric drill answers it.

I have played with, i.e. tried to start, heaps of Seagulls ranging from 1932 to 1994 & up to this point, havn't found one with magnets too weak to permit starting, though others have.

The soft iron parts getting magnetized sound quite credible, but as all the flywheels & ignition parts were supplied by Villiers & Wipac, I find it difficult to understand why such experienced companies would supply parts not best suited to their task.

It would seem that all the Seagull enthusiasts, from the ebay wheeler dealers to the restorers follow a similar routine, when trying to restore a pulse to a basket case.

Clean & set points where fitted.

Replace or restore plug lead.

Replace spark plug with a known worker.

Inspect all ignition wiring for shorts & poor conections.

If no spark at this point, turn flywheel by hand whilst holding plug in other hand, you will be able to tell if the ignition is try to produce a spark, a slight tickle indicates something might be wrong, an "OOH BUGGER!" should tell you there is not much wrong with this ignition & it should run.

As a very last resort before you change the whole flywheel/ignition, try the electric drill, in a significant number of cases, a spark will appear, but please ensure the body of the spark plug has a good grounding to the outboard!

The electric drill will not cure a flakey coil or capacitor, though often a couple of weeks in the airing cupboard, or a plastic bag with silica gel, will bring a coil that has been kept in a damp shed, back to life.