Saving Old Seagulls

I can now clean out the spare petrol tank that is fitted to the engine, mix some fuel, its 25:1 with this carb needle, then start the engine?

Now fueled up and with a 25:1 mix ratio due to the change of needle from SOS, I have fuel in the carb bowl, enough to see it float if I drain it and then catch the fuel, when fitted and with the fuel tap open, the tickler on the top of the fuel bowl produces fuel out of the overflow hole.

The fuel was mixed today, clean unleaed petrol and Shells Gemini marine 2 stroke oil.

I have a great spark, ( tried three plugs ) when I started I did have a suggestion of combustion right at the end of the flywheel spinning, that does not happen now, so I do not have a motor that will fire and run.

I also changed the plug lead.

I tried starting with choke and without choke, throttle was open full with choke or without, any ideas as I am about where I was with this motor when I tried it before and two years back.

The compression is fantastic by the way.

I have just checked the main jet, it was not blocked, I used an air line on it anway.

When I look through the jet tube I see three small holes, I checked two other carbs and I saw the same.

Wedensday 9th January, Nudge told me to clean the points, then clean the points, if no luck change the HT lead, which I have done.

This far I have not checked the points, if I have a good spark what could be wrong with the points, they will have been re gapped back in 2017, I could not get the motor to run then either !

I'm not fully understanding if you have spark or not. I would be spraying WD40 through the open carburetor while spinning. If you have spark it will fire which will leave you with a carb problem. Sounds like something simple.

Points look fine and at 0.5mm when open, my thin and flexible file will clean them just fine.

I had a spark and I have petrol/oil mix, I just do not have the motor firing.

Next I try another carburetor?

Another carb, its off a larger block Seagull and with the same 25:1 needle, I doubt that will stop it at least firing?

Which it did not !

Is this a spark at plug under compression fault ?

What size was the previous carb & what size is the replacement?

Check previous threads to see if you can find any instances of weak spark Wipac Mk 2's.

In fact it might pay to search Wipac 2 posts to see what problems they had & how they were cured.

It would only take 5 minutes to follow Nudge's recommendations & clean & set the points twice, providing you can remove the flywheel, better to be safe rather than sorry. I always clean twice & set!

How much compression do you get?

The carbs are the same size, the one I tried as a second one yesterday has the choke on the other side, that is the one on the motor, the one that was removed and is from the motor ( i think) is in my hand.

The same throttle slide and 25:1 needle was used.

I will search on Wipac 2 and see what can be found there/

The points were cleaned yesterday.

The compression is very high, quite remarkable really.

Not that this will make the motor start but I have just raided another motor and removed its clean tank with a new fuel line and the long filter inside the stop tap.


That filter was not there on the old style brass stop cock I had yesterday and the dirt inside the tank was clogging the exit hole, yes I did wash the tank out and then blow it out with an air gun !

There is fuel exiting the small hole in the float chamber when the tickler button is pressed, its a new mix of fuel done today also .

Look for something you have not checked. Have you checked the timing?
Points should open somewhere around 5/16" BTDC. It’s not that critical could be as early as 9/16" . It is possible you have miss matched crank case and base plate and the timing is way out.

Dave.

PS I know Hout Bay a friend was Vicker there, new him through sailing.

Flywheel base plate looks like it is the correct position. You think there would be a backfire or some sort of a combustion. Still think you should squirt some wd40 through the carby throat while spinning.

Timing screw has now been checked, it was in position but not tight, I moved the base plate left and right, then when I saw the timing hole was lining up I inserted the screw and as it went home it moved the base plate to one side and found its own position when the screw was tightened.

I also used alcohol to clean the points.

Pages in the Service Sheet N016 show the Forty model HT lead entry timing posistion as being a Eight O Clock.

My screw driver shows this.

Does the motor have suction?

Yes it does.

The clamped on plastic bag clearly sucks in on each revolution of the flywheel.

There is a screw that goes through the cable at the mag end that sometimes corrodes causing lack of spark.

https://youtu.be/8b210CFTk30