Forty and Century restoration

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PatLNR
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Location: France Brittany

Forty and Century restoration

Post by PatLNR »

In first a good sandblasting !

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Before the sandblasting :

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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

Nice!

Will you open the heads to check the waterways?
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
PatLNR
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by PatLNR »

I don't removed the heads.
The waterways must be good I have tested with a water pipe.
In first I filled the waterway with "degrippant" during 15 days!
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

I have done many experiments of this kind (degrippant etc) and concluded that the best remover is... the drill :D

I know it is a trouble but it may worth it.

Sandblasting did a great job, I haven't tried it but I would like.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
segler85
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by segler85 »

And how you can be sure that there is no sand inside the sensitive areas? I think that masking wiht tape is not very helpful to do prevetion against the sand...
Sandblasting is a fine technique, but after the job it`s overall and inside the things.
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Charles uk
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by Charles uk »

It's a bit late now to pass comment on sandblasting, but my feeling is that it's more suitable for restoring the boilers of steam powered railway engines.

Perhaps a good question to ask would be "Would you buy a Seagull that had been sandblasted"?
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
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1650bullet
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by 1650bullet »

The sand blasting has made everything look like new again, But can i recommend that you make very sure there is no grit in any of the engine and gearbox. As crude as a seagull is you still dont want any sand in the barrel and crankcase. One grain could be a very expensive exercise. They are very easy to pull down and reassemble so it would be a good idea.
PatLNR
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by PatLNR »

Yes it's a when you use sandblasting on engines.
But it's a specialist(he works for a cars museum) who made the work and he uses low pressure and very very fine glass beads.
After he use very hight pressure compressed air to clean the engine.
Of course all the holes are closed with a sort of plasticine.
Sorry for my bad english , I'm a "frogman" :mrgreen:
PatLNR
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by PatLNR »

My 2 Forty after painting.
It's Hammerite black gloss for the cylinder block and Hammerite hammered finish copper.

Image

It's correct?
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vk7hch
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by vk7hch »

After having the alloy components of my motor blasted during a restore, I was disappointed by the matt finish of the aluminium. However a quick polish with toothpaste and tooth brush soon had them gleaming like new. Then buff with clean rag.
Any surface that I did not want touched, I covered with "Bluetak". ie: bronze bushes. I did not get the block done, paint stripper removed what was needed there.
Chris
The flock so far...F, FP, TC, WC
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Oyster 49
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by Oyster 49 »

It is probably worth being quite specific about what type of abrasive blasting you are using. Sand blasting could easily put a hole in a seagull crankcase in seconds, vapour blasting is usually a wet and somewhat finer process, bead blasting is a dry process and will get into every nook and cranny, including under your flywheel etc.

I would only use bead lasting on completely stripped components, and block ALL threaded holes with a suitable bolt etc, followed by a long wash to remove any remaining bead residue.

30 years ago I rebuilt a Suzuki and after rebuilding it I was finding bead residue everywhere, to the point that I had to strip it again :D it was in the gearbox, and crankcases

I wouldn't run that engine without a full strip and wash of each component personally. I hear that dry ice blasting works very well on aluminium casings.

The blasted alloy cases can be be polished up by burnishing with a rotary wire brush, this will restore the shine, and stop the crud sticking like effluent to a blanket..
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1650bullet
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by 1650bullet »

PatLNR wrote:My 2 Forty after painting.
It's Hammerite black gloss for the cylinder block and Hammerite hammered finish copper.

Image

It's correct?

Thats looks ok. Be interesting to see how it all turns out in the end once its all finished. 8)
PatLNR
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by PatLNR »

They run before , I hope that they run after!!!!
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1650bullet
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by 1650bullet »

PatLNR wrote:They run before , I hope that they run after!!!!
The british army buried heaps of seagulls in the sand dunes of normandy beach back in ww2, Long after ww2 they went back and dug them back up to actually start one up on the beach after all those years in the sand. My 40 plus was sitting at my uncles back chook shed for 10s of years covered in all soughts of things and all i done was clean it up with the pressure washer--flush the tank and fuel system and it fired up on the second pull. Nothing can stop them.
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Charles uk
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Re: Forty and Century restoration

Post by Charles uk »

We've researched the world war 2 stuff, No evidence whatsoever this ever happened, much more saying "No Chance"!

When I say "We", the other Charles will come in now he has done 99.9% of the work.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
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