bugger!!

You can talk about almost anything here

Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo

Post Reply
Pete49
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2021 4:44 am
Location: Sth Australia

bugger!!

Post by Pete49 »

Hi I'm Pete from down under. While giving my Silver Century long shaft a bit of a clean up 1 of the head bolts snapped off.the other 3 nuts came off ok but now find they are all stuck solid in the block and too long to drill out the broken 1. Any thoughts on removal? or is it time to turn it into a spare parts unit? For your information the seagull is a Silver Century clutched long shaft No WSPCL 20F2.
Cheers
Pete
andrew
Site Admin
Posts: 171
Joined: Wed May 24, 2017 5:37 pm
Location: ..

Re: bugger!!

Post by andrew »

A picture will help members give better suggestions.

This is a common problem, did you use heat when removing the bolts?
Pete49
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2021 4:44 am
Location: Sth Australia

Re: bugger!!

Post by Pete49 »

No no heat used as I removed the block and head as 1 unit as the 4 bolts were stuck and I didn't need or want to separate the head from the block . The bolt snapped as I put the unit back over the piston and tightened the nuts and one snapped as I had gone just a 1/4 turn from finger tight. Its soaking in diesel at the moment.
Pete
andrew
Site Admin
Posts: 171
Joined: Wed May 24, 2017 5:37 pm
Location: ..

Re: bugger!!

Post by andrew »

Did the stud shear flush with the block, or is there still a few mm of stud protruding? If the latter, a ton of heat from the torch until red hot and a pair of vice/mole grips will usually get it out even if only a couple mm to grip. A whack on the grips with a heavy hammer while red hot will usually break the seal.

For the studs stuck in the block but not sheared, you can leave them as is or remove with heat and replace. Replacements are readily available. For these it is best to start with two nuts tightened on each other as deep as possible on the stud, apply lots of heat and use a wrench to back out the stud.

Patience seems to be the key to stubborn studs, I’ve spent an hour on a single stud before, moving it maybe 1/16 of a turn at a time and reheating in between moves…

Good luck and if you can post a photo I’m sure others will chime in too.
geofflena
Posts: 110
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:54 am
Location: Bristol

Re: bugger!!

Post by geofflena »

Those studs are not that long - about an inch of thread. Also - original seagull studs are not that hard metal. I drilled one out recently.
You need to get a good very central center punch mark.
Then some good bits. Try to get a 3mm as central and straight as possible - and drill as deep as possible. Use cutting fluid and new cobalt bits.
Then I stepped up the drill sizes - by the time you get to close the heat of the drill and weakening of the metal usually loosens it. Then stick a bit in with a cordless on reverse - and chances are it winds out the remains.
I was drilling to think of helicoiling it - but before I got to full size of hole it came out and left the thread ok ?

That block I show on my block surgery post is a siver century. The studs there show how much is in the block - as they are the same both ends for thread length ?
User avatar
John@sos
Posts: 637
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 8:16 pm
Location: Essex, UK
Contact:

Re: bugger!!

Post by John@sos »

That WSPC should have had 4 x 5/16 BSF bolts 1" long.

If you can drill them out and clean the threads up, I have stainless head bolts £10.00 a set.

To anyone attempring head bolt removal, soak in WD40 or similar for a week. Then use a blow torch on bolts, one at a time, for a couple of minutes. put torch out and cool with WD40. Then gently try a 1/4 wht spanner

If it does not shift with hand pressure repeat oil and heat steps!

Earlier Century models used studs and nuts.

Regards,
john
SOS
Post Reply