Ignition problem was not solved :(

[enrico]

I went out fishing today. Had my ignition figured out (because of help here in forum). Everything went well.
The motor (40 Plus) started every time right away. It went swell. I never before had the engine running so good. (I have an 18mb AVI recording of that

I went trolling at low RPM. The waterpump was cooling. The coling water was not very hot. I was just missing the fish. Then suddenly Seagull stopped - and I have till now not succeded starting it again.

Checked everything. Only a few sparks now and then. I cannot figure it out. It went for several hours and then it stopped. No lack of petrol, new plugs. Everything is tested.

Can it be a defect coil? I try to enclose a picture here. (The ekstra coil is my grandfathers (the former owner) voltage outlet - which I never use).




-enrico

[Swami]

Intermittent spark is most likely due to a loose or chaffed wire somewhere, unless your coil got wet in the journey and now needs drying out. Check back through all the wiring in the system looking for any little places wires might touch out to earth occassionally. Here's the proceedure I would use for any spark checking.

Track back through the system testing or replacing each component one at a time to see if the problem and symptoms change: > plug > HT lead > contact with coil HT output (the removable lug at coil end of HT lead) > the switching at the coil input (the coil end of your red wire should go ground-open-ground-open when motor is spun > your points to coil wire might be grounding or open circuit due to corrosion or broken insulation > or the coil may need a "spin". Check the insulation plate under the ponts plate is OK and no "gunk" trapped around it. Condensor may have broken down. Points gap may have moved. Good luck. See the FAQ pages and Old Guest Pages for more details on this and many other areas. http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/guest/

[enrico]

Thanks Swami!
Now I have got something to do. First of all I shall have all your tchnical English translated

Thank you!

-enrico

[enrico]

I started checking the HT coil but here is my first problem. There is no removable lug at coil end. The cable seems to be factory made. [img]http://www.guldager.net/lg/coil.jpg[img] I have bought a new cable and lug...
I tried using an ohm-meter. It is hard to use it - dont know where to measure (I put one end to the cylinder the other to the moving point, but it is hard to see any changes, but now after adjusting the points I have lots of blue sparks again
My problem is, the piston is 3/4 - 1 cm from top when the points open. I learned it should be 2,5 mm from top. That is, my ignition is way too early.
(I was told here in forum not to, but) I tried to move the disc underneath 3/4 cm counterclockwise, and I had ignition right away (just one time). I think my problem is the too early ignition. Can the factory settings somehow be misadjusted?
I am almost about to go to a wise man now, but don´t know where to find him.

[John@sos]

Hello there, the points seemed to have a large gap, it should be 20 thou, or 0.5mm.

the timing is fixed. the screw under the baseplate into the crankcase, locates into a dimple in the crankcase. If the screw is loose check the back plate has not moved...

Like the extra coil, you spoke about it, interesting to see it.

Regards,
John
SOS

[enrico]

I tried to post the picture - I try again.


-or try this link

http://www.guldager.net/lg/coil.jpg

Lars Guldager aka enrico

[enrico]

It worked with the picture this time.

Yes John - I know about the plate, and yes the gap is much too large on the previous pictures.

In fact I have no spark at 0,5 mm gap. The ignition comes only from gap 0,4 - 0,3 but I think the time of ignition is wrong.

The piston is far from top when the points open.

[charlesp]

It should be at 23 degrees before top dead centre (thank you the other Charles)

The only time a post 1940's Seagull timing is out (if attached by the dimple that John has mentioned) is when the crankshaft has been replaced with one from a different series.

The Forty and Century crankshafts are very similar in many ways, but the flywheel key is in a different position. I have inadvertently installed a Forty crank into a Century (stupid, yes, I know!) and couldn'y get it to do anything other than backfire - but eventually all became clear.

I got a very knowing look from the local Seagull man when I enlisted his help, and a pitying shake of the head...