Any tips on getting these out other than the usual heaps of heat?
Trying to swap one out from a spare crank case to my current project, but couldn’t get either stud out with heaps of heat and a hefty pair of vice grips. I don’t want to shear the studs so thought I would check on the forum before giving it another go. I believe they are threaded the usual way?
Tiller stud removal
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Re: Tiller stud removal
I'd suggest exactly what you're doing I've done many 2 in a row doesn't sound right (silly question are you tightening and not loosening)
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Regret is just a memory written on my brow
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
Re: Tiller stud removal
One came out today, from the donor FP case. Center portion a bit scraped up from the grips but threads in good condition, will be fine once cleaned up a bit.
But the stud in the SJM has less non-threaded portion to grip onto, only about 4mm protruding versus about 8mm on the FP. Already chewed it up a fair amount. Now to decide whether to have one last go and risk shearing/ruining, or try to salvage the existing stud after messing it up quite a bit. A classic dilemma!
But the stud in the SJM has less non-threaded portion to grip onto, only about 4mm protruding versus about 8mm on the FP. Already chewed it up a fair amount. Now to decide whether to have one last go and risk shearing/ruining, or try to salvage the existing stud after messing it up quite a bit. A classic dilemma!
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Re: Tiller stud removal
The normal way to remove these is 2 x 3/8" BSF nuts locked together on the outer thread & soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days, then with a 3/8 BSF ring spanner on the nut closest to the crankcase try undoing in the normal direction, if it feels like you might shear the thread off, try a small amount of heat!
Put your vice grips somewhere where they're hard to find, it will save you the cost of a new stud!
Put your vice grips somewhere where they're hard to find, it will save you the cost of a new stud!
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.