For those that are interested - there are a few words and photos on the progress on my Website -
https://myshed.mooo.com/Seagull-FPI220J ... ation.html
This picture is of course prior to cleaning.
I got the little fella in OK - but non-running condition. Completely stripped it, cleaned it, bit of paint here, bit of polish there and it came up reasonably well, and fired up pretty much straight away - ran well. Ran it in the test tank a number of times for up to 10 minutes at a time.
Then I had to go away for work, and now that I've come home - it won't start - kinda sorta.
Here are a list of signs/symptoms.
- It will not start by pull start - Choke on or off - Throttle Full/Mid/Low
- It will not start by Spinning it high speed with a Power Drill
- It will start very easily by pull start if starter fluid/petrol is put in the spark plug hole
- It will start very easily by pull start if starter fluid is sprayed into the Carby intake
- Once it has started via starter fluid/petrol in cylinder, it will: run, and run quite well
- Once it has ran for a minute or so, it will start very easily by pull start
- Once it has been left to sit for more than about 2 hours, we go back to square one and it won't start.
- Very good, bright blue spark
- Timing seems good - locating screw is tightly in place
- Compression OK - 70psi
My thoughts - clearly a carby issue:
Disassembled and cleaned the carb (twice) - Blew Carby Cleaner through it - Ultrasonic Cleaner - Blew out with compressed air (its clean)
I can trace the fuel
- Comes out of the tank OK
- Comes out the carby end of the fuel hose OK
- Goes into the Carby OK
- With the float bowl off, I can see the fuel running into the Carby OK -Can start & Stop the flow with the Petrol Tap on the fuel tank
- Can also start and stop the flow by lifting the little lever the float lifts - so the needle and seat seem to be OK
- With the Float Bowl in place - when I hit the tickler button, I will see fuel overflow out the float bowl hole
??Leaking Crankcase? No vacuum? Prior to assembly I flattened the mating surfaces with 400 grit Wet and Dry on a sheet of glass, they looked very good, but despite that, sealed them with an anaerobic gasket sealer. Would the engine run well once it was going if there was a crankcase leak?
Air Leak between Block and Carby? Is there supposed to be some kind of gasket/O-Ring/Washer in the Carby intake side that seals here?
My gut feel is that for some reason, there is a lack of vacuum which, when pull starting, the low speed of crank rotation isn't sucking enough fuel through the carby to start, but I gave it a good try with a Power Drill at good revs, but still no luck - so that theory is probably completely wrong.
I'm a bit stumped!!
I will try another carby if/when I get my hands on one.
What is this new way that bloody Seagulls can drive us crazy?