Bought a 170 at the weekend, and I've been trying to get it running. Can't find an engine number (should it be in the same place as earlier Seagulls?). Initial examination showed it produced a blue spark with the plug resting on the block, engine turned by hand (recoil start). No sign at all of the engine firing. Fuel (fresh 25:1) was getting as far as the carb. Removed the recoil start and spun the engine round using a 21mm socket driven by an electric drill - still no sign of firing. There was a slight fuel leak on the inboard side of the fitting for the line from the tank, but plenty of fuel getting to the carb. Removed, stripped and cleaned the carb (didn't seem bad at all), left the body soaking in petrol overnight, then blew everything through with compressed air this morning, and re-assembled. Screwed the adjusting screw fully in, then out 2 turns - not sure whether that's correct, it was 4 turns out when I got it.
Now the bad bit! I've seen a warning somewhere about not over-tightening the fuel pipe union bolt, but I seem to have managed it! The thread won't hold any more and results in a severe leak. Can the carb body be recovered by re-tapping the thread (oversize) and using a new bolt - if so, has anyone done this, and what thread? What else might be causing the engine not to fire? If the carb can't be recovered, will any other carb fit?
Getting a 170 running - any help appreciated!
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Dead 170s
The engine number of the 170's was stamped into the tray!
ENS, ENL etc
I have spare carbs, but before you throw money at this motor be aware of it's achillies heel! It has been mentioned on the site before, but the big end cap is too weak. they wear alarmingly then will gige, normaly smashing the conrod as well.
there are NO SPARES!!! for these parts.... They are different to other Seagulls, so not interchangable.
New Big ends have been made in bronze and Charles Large of racing fame, has made alternatives for his, but that is over and above normal servicing!!!
Do feel for play in the system... pencil down the hole and turn slowly, if pencil does not move as you pass bottom of the stroke, beware!
Regards,
John
SOS
ENS, ENL etc
I have spare carbs, but before you throw money at this motor be aware of it's achillies heel! It has been mentioned on the site before, but the big end cap is too weak. they wear alarmingly then will gige, normaly smashing the conrod as well.
there are NO SPARES!!! for these parts.... They are different to other Seagulls, so not interchangable.
New Big ends have been made in bronze and Charles Large of racing fame, has made alternatives for his, but that is over and above normal servicing!!!
Do feel for play in the system... pencil down the hole and turn slowly, if pencil does not move as you pass bottom of the stroke, beware!
Regards,
John
SOS
Thanks, John, for the reply. I did some more homework and had already found the engine number on the tray, ENS36JJ3, so presumably Sept. '83. Does the "S" signify sealed gearbox, standard shaft, or something else?
I removed the plug and put a pencil through the hole onto the top of the piston, turned the engine by hand (slowly!) and everything seems normal. I know the con rod / big end assembly has a bit of a reputation, but would like to see the engine running, mostly out of stubbornness!
I don't like the idea of scrapping the carb for the sake of one stripped thread, there does seem to be room to cut a new thread there, just wondered whether anyone had done the job. On the other hand, a replacement carb. would see the job done more quickly. If I see another 170 I might buy it just to swap carbs temporarily and make sure my engine is otherwise OK.
All this started off with an attempt to rationalise (and reduce!) my collection of Seagulls, so far the result is exactly the opposite!
I removed the plug and put a pencil through the hole onto the top of the piston, turned the engine by hand (slowly!) and everything seems normal. I know the con rod / big end assembly has a bit of a reputation, but would like to see the engine running, mostly out of stubbornness!
I don't like the idea of scrapping the carb for the sake of one stripped thread, there does seem to be room to cut a new thread there, just wondered whether anyone had done the job. On the other hand, a replacement carb. would see the job done more quickly. If I see another 170 I might buy it just to swap carbs temporarily and make sure my engine is otherwise OK.
All this started off with an attempt to rationalise (and reduce!) my collection of Seagulls, so far the result is exactly the opposite!
Hello There, I do not know what thread that part is off hand, but I do know that Amal used BA sizes, so guess you are right! If there is room to lengthen the thread you are in business!
The S in the number was used to denote Standard shaft....
the carb screw should be out about 1 and a half turns, but that will be a bit of trial and error, should not effect it starting.
Try the rag over the intake as you pull it, that normally gets fuel where it's needed!
Regards,
john
SOS
The S in the number was used to denote Standard shaft....
the carb screw should be out about 1 and a half turns, but that will be a bit of trial and error, should not effect it starting.
Try the rag over the intake as you pull it, that normally gets fuel where it's needed!
Regards,
john
SOS