Saving Old Seagulls

OK, off to Repco tomorrow to see if they can get it in for me; I hope that I can get 1 litre

You may be lucky but they usually don't stock it but it does come in 1litre.

I am using Nulon

Seems to be doing a good job, pours like honey, emulsifies well.

Chris

Well, I went to the local Repco store, they "just sold the last bottle of Transoil 140" and will not order any more in unless I pay for and order in a box of the stuff.

I can order it online by the litre from Motofluid in Melbourne, but I'm not sure of the Postage.

There are other 85W-140 gear oils around; including the Nulon that CI posted the pic of; are they suitable?

I brought a 1 ltr bottle of the nulon 85w-140 from supercheap, Its the non limited slip diff oil, so it does not have any friction modifiers in it, I did see a 500ml bottle of nulon outboard gearcase oil with a squirter nozzle on it that would of been ok to use in a seagull. But it was cheaper to buy the one liter bottle instead. I ordered those seals you showed me last friday. So they should turn up mon or tues. I will be visiting chris threw the week to source up some parts, and then i will take the motor out for a run to see how it goes.I have a 1970s aluminium savage 11ft punt for this motor, Its getting painted in army olive drab as we speak.

I note that the Nulon says EP. It's my belief that sulphur is added which you can usually smell and it's this that eats the bronze over time. This could also be temperature related too so in a gull box all could behave differently.
I stick with what the manufacturer specifies and what the oil company lists as suitable.
You could try seeing if Nulon or others have a vehicle/ machine identifier and see what they suggest. Penrite has one and I also spoke to their tech help people who advised that Transoil 140 is correct for seagull and NOT limslip 140.
You may also have another Penrite dealer other than Repco. Give them a call?

I have just noticed a heap of wear in where the stainless pin goes threw the tramson clamp and pivot hinge.(See my Finger) I was thinking of removing the stainless pin, Drill a hole threw each end of the brass transom mount and threw to the inner pivot. and fit some stainless steel bolts, This would be the cheapest way to repair the problem. Or should i take worn parts to my local engineering shop and have them fit stainless bushings threw them.

David at Antique Tyre Supplies, Ingleburn. 96182788 has 140 transoil. Sends it the same day.

That stainless pin is only there to stop the motor jumping out, other than that it is doing nothing, so leave it alone.

Isn't 85 / 140 a multigrade not a straight 140 as specified.

Charles uk wrote:That stainless pin is only there to stop the motor jumping out, other than that it is doing nothing, so leave it alone.

Isn't 85 / 140 a multigrade not a straight 140 as specified.

So all that wear is just normal is it If thats just normal, I will just laeve it be then, Thanks Charles

Some years ago i purchased a 20Liter drum of Valvoline TRA-140 gear oil, its made for truck gearboxes & is a straight 140 gear oil. I figured 20 Liters should last me a life time.

Not sure why you all get paranoid about using the right oil in your gearbox, any sort of trans oil is ok. The most important thing is to change it after you have used the motor is it seems to always get water mixed in it. I drain mine as soon as I am putting them away and only fill them to the top when I am going to use it. I add just a little oil so I can run it up for bench running etc saves a lot of mess.

The oil is meant to emulsify with water. That's what the gearbox runs on.
EP is fine, the additives mentioned act at high temperatures never reached by a Seagull gearbox. British Seagull used to sell EP140.

85w-140 isn't 140. It's 85w-140, so best not used. Use straight 140.

Have a glance at:

http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq/faq.htm

I have just noticed a heap of wear in where the stainless pin goes threw the tramson clamp and pivot hinge.(See my Finger) I was thinking of removing the stainless pin, Drill a hole threw each end of the brass transom mount and threw to the inner pivot. and fit some stainless steel bolts, This would be the cheapest way to repair the problem. Or should i take worn parts to my local engineering shop and have them fit stainless bushings threw them.

The pin is, yes, just to keep the motor in the transom mount cradle. It is sloppy.

The screwed pin in front of your finger actually adjusts the centres of the yoke slash bracket?

Undo and remove completely the drive shaft pitch adjustment bolt through the plastic keeper to drive tube and rotate the clamp halves inward untill the lugs of the cradle are a firm fit. Then replace the thru bolt and drive shaft suport plastic doo dad..........

B