New member - About restoration

[Stelios_Rjk]

Thanks for the info, I will also search for the dealer. If he has no stock I have in mind 316 stainless steel. I found one company which makes seamless 12x12mm external dimension, 9.6mm internal. I belive it suits. If it is needed to be mild the metal at the edges I will heat it to become red and then let it cold slowly, this way will become mild.

[Charles uk]

That's a bit small for the water pump impeller & might not be strong enough, but worth a try.

Good luck & let us know how it goes.

[Stelios_Rjk]

I trust 316 stainless steel, I may try a little thicker than 1,2mm. The impeller doesn't worry me as I will make one from plexiglass or another composite material even stronger.

I promise to upload photos as soon as I found my camera cable..!


PS Wish you fast recovery!

[Stelios_Rjk]

Just received one used block from UK! Look good. I wanted to ask. Which is the proper way to remove paint? It is painted black and underneath silver. I have read of a receipt of vinegar and salt but I don't that this would be good for the bore. Shall I sink it to that solution side by side? Is there another way such as using a solvnet? After that should I rub it with a kind of sandpaper?

After paint removal with what do you suggest to paint it? Black or Silver?

[Oyster 49]

I would use paint stripper first to soften the paint, and then carefully scrape off the paint. Once that is done, wash and dry to neutralise the stripper. Then use a rotary wire brush to remove whats left. I then use a heat resistant gloss enamel to finish.

http://www.international-paints.co.uk/p ... enamel.jsp

So far I have had good results with this finish on the 102s I have worked on. Some people prefer a matt or satin finish, with less gloss. I think silver is also available. Original finish was silver.

[Charles uk]

The cylinder colour seemed to change from year to year, if you post the engine number from the crankcase this one will be using, I'm sure one of our members will tell you the colour of his motor from the same year.

The majority were silver but there are a lot of black ones to.

[Stelios_Rjk]

Beautiful result!
Thanks for the info. I didn't want to scratch hard the block that's why I was asking for the proper way. Should I use a primer before paint? A suggestion of one heat resistant primer and paint would be ideal.

My models are: WSPCL 18 66 CC6 and WSL 11 08 EE7
Are those two regarded as something special or just regular models?

[Oyster 49]

No primer required, just removal of any loose paint and corrosion
"Surface preparation
Ensure all surfaces are clean, dry and free from rust and other contaminants. Bare iron and steel: Remove any loose or flaking rust by wire brushing. Sand down and wipe clean. There is no need to prime the surface. Previously painted surfaces: Remove any flaking or blistered paint/rust by wire brushing. Always sand down and wipe clean.

Galvanised or non-ferrous metal: Prime with International Special Metals Primer or International 3 in 1 Primer, Sealer, Undercoat.

How to use
Stir well with a broad stirring stick to the bottom of the can. This is essential to ensure an even colour and finish. Apply two coats using a natural bristle brush suitable for solvent-based paints. Sand down lightly and wipe clean between coats."

[Stelios_Rjk]

Thanks, I 'll go shoping and start painting..!

Today I put the block on the powerhead. I cleaned the piston at first and apply WD40 in the cranset and block. Then I started tighten the bolts and start runing the powerhead with my hands to see if there is any problem. Then I decided to test the ignition. I put the HT lead close to the crankset and turn the flywheel.. waiting to see the electric discharge. I may had not place it correctly, a small adjustment, a turn... Ouch!!! The electricity hit me but yes, it's alive!!!! After that continued turning the flywheel and wathing the electric discharge. Really happy about that. I believe that the second's powerhead ignition system must be OK as both give the same measurment on my polymeter must be something like 4000 Ohm but not sure about that. Just the same mesurment in both ignition systems. I must say that my greatest fear is over as I regard as the most difficult procedure to repair the ignition system.

Photos at weekend!

[Stelios_Rjk]

I put the block on the WSPCL tighten the bolts the engine runs freely, I tried with the WSL, same block and if I tighten the bolts when the piston gets to the highest position it continous but with difficulty. I have to make effort to continue turning. If I don't tighten the bolts and turn the flywheel when the piston gets to the highest position the block moves a little bit from its position. Something seems to be really wrong. There is nothing visibly wrong as far as I can see without opening the crancase. Any ideas what to do?

[Stelios_Rjk]

I disassembled the powerhead. By turning the crankshaft with a drill I see that there is an offset, not much, but there is a little. I will go to an expert to be sure. Is it possible the conrod to have bent so little that it is hardly visible with bare eyes or if it bend there will be a major deformation easy to see? Neither on the piston nor in the crankcase there is no scratches.

Could anyone give some advice? Assist please.

[Horsley-Anarak]

It sounds like your crankshaft may be bent, check it with a dial gauge in a lathe.

H-A

[Stelios_Rjk]

Thanks for the response!

OK I will do. Is it possible to have problem to the conrod also? How could I check it as there is nothing visibly wrong?

[Stelios_Rjk]

Hello to everybody. Sorry for the delayed photos, I was on vacations.

I have good news! The one, this without any problem, worked!!! I am realy happy! I did some things to test it.. You'll see in the photos.

First of all some essential holes on a wooden (mdf) board to attach the powerhead..
Then I attached a water pump to the coper pipe to tranfer water to the block.




The red cup is needed to measure petrol and oil, the white thing is a DIY tank!!! I don't have a tank as it cannot be posted from UK. I 'll do something to make one, for the testing that was OK.


And everything assembled apart from the DIY tank(!), with the second pull start firing hard.

[Hugz]

Crikey! How loud was it?