Saving Old Seagulls

That looks better, you are missing a plastic ring that fits round the flywheel housing, same blue plastic as the top cap.

H-A

I see.. The fact that exist even the plastic cover that has written Seagull on is great luck. The previous owner must be a butcher! The axe fell and cut the half backplate and the tiller arm..!

I think I saved that gearbox. I am sorry I didn't take pictures before and you see only the condition afterwards. What would you way about the gears?
It was full of goo.










Now it is full of SAE 90. I spin it with a drill and doesn't observe anything weird.

What do you expect to come out of this gearbox?

a) a dinosaur
b) goo
c) gears in great condition

Those gear boxes usually seal pretty well , while yours shows some corrosion it appears fine . It is a 2:1 ratio I believe , I have one of these motor/gearboxes , not the fastest in my collection , but a nice unit. It would pay to use heat to remove the drive tube from the pump housing . Impressive work shop and parts cleaner !

Hello Chili!
I appreciate that you like my workshop.. It is said that where I establish a workshop destruction overcomes

The pictures is from two gearboxes. The first one which have some corrosion on the gears is 2.5:1. (Both clutched)

The other one which is on surgery in the last picture is 48:12 and I was expecting to find a dinosaur inside. Beyond any expectation when I opened it I found what you see in the following pictures. I had fill it with gas for a couple of days before opening.





After some cleaning


Assembled and full of gearbox oil!



The next stage would be to remove the drive shaft housing. First I would have to remove the bolt that holds it in place. I don't know why, but the previous owner has cut the head of the bolt

probabley sheared not cut? Are you gonna drill it out after exams are finished and you have some free time?

I am thinking to weld a rod on the bolt and try to undo it. The other solution would be drilling and rethreading as I have the proper drill bit and tap. But yes, that would be a task for later. So far I am happy by the time those two gearboxes came to life again!

Don't worry about how your going to fix this bolt, worry about what, apart from crud, is holding the lower unit on!

I am not afraid so much about this drive shaft housing. It is well rusted in total, not in points. The other one, which has the rubber fitting for the transom bracket, it is not too rusted but at the point of that fitting the rust has created many layers and has penetrate a lot the tube, this may make it useless.

Phosphoric acid after Tuesday will take action..

This is what I call a problem..

I suspect that leg may be dead!

Not dead.. Lame it is!

Success!!!!!!

So I finally managed to form another silver century. I had the carb, tiller arm and exhaust. The rest came to me. After unblocking the waterways, first with drill etc, then I used phosphoric acid in a product for derusting. It worked but not with great success. Then I decided to apply zinc (as a spray) on the walls of the water jacket. Bad idea as the engine run hot. I remove it with caustic soda.
The shaft housing was also curred with this product and rotary wire brush. I just painted as the porous didn't allow a proper chromium plating. In addition I wanted to have a good running engine without caring so much about the appearance. So this is it!









Someone had cut the head of the bolt through the pump housing so it was needed to make it flat again.


And some teflon tape that forms a "bearing" in order to avoid scratches and paint removal from the shaft housing.