Silly question?

[Still trying]

Whoops posted the same photo twice. This is when the backing plate finally came off.

[headdownarseup]

Very nice.
All looks to be un-molested to me. Nice find that, especially with a box.

Flywheel covers for this era are supposed to be blank. Nice rope pulley too. (ever so slightly different to the later ones, but absolutely correct for this)

I have 2 just like this but a little bit earlier. An AD (like yours) and now an AC.

Nothing too dramatic with the gearbox. I've seen this sort of thing god knows how many times before. A good clean out and re-lube and it should be good to go again.Check the play in the bushes while you've got the box apart. They will leak quite a bit of oil from the prop shaft bushing if there's a LOT of play. (could be why the box ran dry in the first place) Use your best judgement with this. And most importantly, replace everything exactly where it came from and you wont go wrong.

Let me know its serial number and i'll add it to my list of data.

Jon

[Charles uk]

That white powder that fell out of your gearbox is aluminium oxide, a finer grade of the stuff they use in sandblasters, a very abrasive medium, before you lube anything wash it clean with old 2-stroke mix, dry, & give everything a good rattle to see if the wear on the bushes & shafts is excessive, all the components of this box are available from John & British Seagull.

After 60+ years it's reasonable to expect that the pinion shaft & prop shaft thrust washers, are showing a considerable amount of wear, if your planning on restoring this for use, rather than for ornamental reasons it's probably a good idea to reset the meshing of these gears with the correct thickness, thrust washers.

Assemble everything with a few good squirts of 140 oil, including the gear teeth, then fit the prop & give it a few turns while pushing hard on the prop, what does it sound & feel like?

This is the time to play with fatter & thinner prop shaft thrust washers, you'll know when you've got it right!

[Still trying]

Thanks for the info Charles I followed your description of what to do and when re-assembled without the rear cover gasket the gears feel smooth and the play on the prop shaft measured 5.6 mm to 6.2 mm between gearbox housing and rear of prop which has all been cleaned so 0.6 of a mill + 0.4 mm gasket gives me a millimetre play. Looking good at the moment I hope, we'll see when I eventually get it on the boat?
Cheers
Bob

[Still trying]

Hi Jon how are you? I've sent the engine number for your records. I am fairly new at all the seagull so I thought I'd add a photo of the gearbox and rear cover matching serial numbers. I don't know if this is common or not but it just took my interest seeing matching numbers.
Cheers
Bob

[headdownarseup]

Hi Bob
Your seagull has now been added to my list. Welcome aboard! Numbers on the gearbox and end cap are nice to see, it shows that the lower unit retains its original end cap.Its easier to keep track of which part came from where, especially if you've got several 102's in bits laid out on a bench all at once. Quite common. But very clearly visible which is rather nice.

As per Charles suggestion, when you re-assemble the gearbox, to assess the wear with any degree of accuracy you really need to have the end cap fitted along with all the thrust washers as well. Give everything a good pull/push and from side to side on the prop shaft. As mentioned previously the prop shaft bush is very prone to wear after some serious neglect and very often is the first place where most of the gear oil will leak from. Dont overlook the drive pinion either. This is the second place where a lot of wear occurs. Oil leaks out from the box and water takes its place. Pinions can sometimes be tricky to remove although Hugo has just posted a rather good you tube video showing how he removed one from an older 102. Well worth a look.

I like to use my 102's rather than just look at them longingly. Quite a lot of these 102's are approaching retirement age (a lot of mine are over 60+ years old, with the odd one or two now over 70 ) so they could well be quite tempramental after being sat inside a box for years. Periodic maintenence might have been overlooked by the previous owner (see previous gearbox pics) so at this point i think you'd be wise to go through the entire motor in the same fashion. Better to be safe than sorry. Easy enough to do, just take your time with it and dont rush. If you get stuck on anything just yell. One of us will jump in and help i'm sure

And of course, we all like pics

Jon

[Still trying]

Hi all I have another question, this one regarding cleaning the inside of the fuel tank on the 102. Had a look and she is green as inside. I'd rather not use stuff that is to strong like I've seen on the net and I don't want to fill it with gravel and shake it around like I've also seen . Anyway, I was wondering if I use a mix of white vinegar and salt like is suggested on the FAQS on the seagull site for cleaning the transom brackets would that work ok on the inside of the tank. As well, has anyone got any tips for getting the little screw out of the fuel tap, this one has been knocked about a bit with the wrong size screwdriver (wasn't me) I have the repair kit from John but the only thing stopping me is that little bloody screw . Been having a bit of spare time to clean some of the 102 I'm pretty happy how it has come up so far now I have to sort out the business end at the top.
Cheers
Bob

[Collector Inspector]

Bob

Silly little screw can be a pain in the proverbial if you have inherited a bodged one. You just have to use mental power and a tight fitting, small vise grip to get it started to turn out. Yes fiddly but I am sure with time it will be out.

Cleaning inside of a green tank......easy with no nasty chem that may well have nasty probs later.

If inside is green (Hopefully a wet green) then get yourself some lite chain about 80cm long........put into tank....your fav degreaser that is water soluable........and shake it. I suggest degreaser.

The chain should be lite and flexible like a heavy duty bath-plug chain etc?

Shake rattle and roll until your arms hurt then do it again tomorrow the same.

Remove the chain........may be tangled inside so be patient.

Rinse with hot hot water and..........

You are lucky as a brass tank.

We all like pics Aye!

BnC

[Still trying]

Hi again I'm glad I called this thread Silly Question cause here comes another one! I noticed this stamp on the 102 and was just wondering why it was there? The bottom of the crankcase has the engine number and on the top half of the crankcase SD is stamped under what must be timing marks. There probably is an obvious reason and everyone else knows but. You get that when our learning.

[tambikerboy]

Been mentioned in the past china sd was probably the geezer that built it although i have never seen any other initials over the years (looks like there could be many pics to follow) ....

[AusAnzani]

Your AD is looking fantastic Bob.

Not many about in that sort of condition, so a great score also.

I also have an AD (similar serial number) with the SD stamped into the upper crank case like yours. If Tam is correct (and I have no doubt he is) this fella must have built quite a few.

Regards,
Spiro

[Charles uk]

Actually Tam is wrong, the SD stamp doesn't refer to the assembler, as their code was stamped on the tiller arm stub during the period that they were paid on a piece work basis & wasn't credited to them until after the motor had successfully passed through the testing procedure, but refers it's believed to the wide transfer port notched crankcase.

We have no documents supporting this, only tales from ex staff members, so don't bet your house on it.

[AusAnzani]

Good on ya Tam lol

[tambikerboy]

Just wondering what the rest of these initials stand for then if that's sd acounted for what about the rest...over to you great one

[Keith.P]

I must have a Pee.

IMG_1231.JPG

This one is incomplete in the workshop.