Saving Old Seagulls

1939 SEAGULL OP or ON

Hi all
Just had to email this guy and this is the answer I got
The square drive shaft fits through the seal and greatly restricts the large gap
Which is normal.i quess it will be better if you take off the square edges where it fits the seal
So Charles can I have your £5 note fancy no body thinking of that

I messaged the seller to ask how a round seal seals a square rotating shaft. He told me it greatly reduces water into the drive tube! So there you go.

Incredible.

He told me run a grinder round the shaft to make a 1-2mm slot, he says this wont weaken it

Love it!

I heard about this with incredulity.

What dipstick could sell rubbish like this... but then I found out who it was, another so called Seagull dealer not on the Seagull list of dealers and never likely to be.

I have to say it, there are some real sharks out there on EBay, beware!

John
SOS

Now there’s an idea, dipsticks! I’m going to offer a kit on eBay to allow easy inspection of the oil level in the crankcase

A couple of members asked me to do a technical appraisal of this seal concept to see how easy it was to do & if it was a worthwhile idea.

A 9/16" x 1 1/8" x 1/4" single lip oil seal arrived in the post this morning, with the following instructions "You will find that the seal will work better if you lightly grind off the sharp edges of the drive shaft, only where it fits in the seal".

The seal position requires that the drive shaft tube is moved up in the water pump housing by about 7mm, I don't think this will affect the pinch bolts ability to hold onto the drive shaft tube very much, though it won't improve it!

I'm not super keen on removing the corners of the drive shaft to make it seem rounder than it actually is, but I do have access to a lathe with a concentric 4 jaw chuck, so I'm planning on spinning it as it gets ground, though is does imply that the drive shaft with a diagonal measurement of 18.45mm will have to be ground to around 16mm, I'm not too happy about wrecking a drive shaft to try this out.

I'm planning on using an angle grinder with a fine sanding disc as I want to leave as good a finish as possible to avoid excessive wear on the seal as it's lubricated by water not oil but not down as far as the water pump impeller location.

I think that will be a Saturday morning job.

This sounds like another reason for a tow home

Your not too old to go over my knee young man!

I've met a lot of very interesting people being towed!

I carry various lengths of rope on my boats, all have specific roles.
And we always carry the " Charles rope", I do think that sometimes he is just saving on petrol

How did you know my tow rope is called Charles
Even the kids know what I'm talking about when I ask for "Charles"

Round block 102's

But surely it is not how much water gets up into the drive shaft tube, but how much actually comes out of the radial holes three quarters the way up the tube.
Does much come out? And is that at the same time as the rate of cooling water through the block is low?
If not, then one is trying to solve a problem that does not exist.

Jeremy

and I've had to tow HA before now

timberman2004 wrote:and I've had to tow HA before now

Rare indeed That was because a bit fell off, engine still ran, just incomplete transombracket.

I am sitting looking out the window in Fowey at the moment, this video was 8 years ago Neil, no towing then.

https://youtu.be/7iAjAhD5D5I

H-A