Saving Old Seagulls

headdownarseup wrote:Just looking at your pics Steve of the collar that sits at the lower crank case. Is that a piece of locking wire i see?

Cut the wire first, heat the bolt and it should come apart.

Jon

I did remove the wire, I guessed it was on to stop the bolt coming out, it did a great job

I am back looking at the Carb, I have 2 Villiers here, the one that fits the LS and another newer one, the only difference I can see on the Body it a larger Induction internal dia. on the more modern one, can anyone tell me if the centrepiece and Jet )I think it is part no.V638) are interchangeable?
they look the same size to me, I am thinking of swapping them as the older one is worn where the spanner fits and the hole is damaged
Oh and after looking at this photo I notice the hole on the brass jets are in opposite directions, could this be where my problem is?

Just try the other carb china surley one of them will work still don't think that's your issue though plenty of pulls on the cord sold get the fuel flowing blow through the centre piece and make sure it's not gummed up. ...and check that the slider is going up and down

The horizontal hole in the jet is just the opening hole that the fuel flows from the float bowl into the jet, so it doesn't matter which way it faces.

A little animation I did sometime ago, it may help.

http://vid218.photobucket.com/albums/cc ... v3415t.mp4

Lost for words keith fecking fantastic. is that a washer at 1.46 cheers

Thanks Tam, Charkes and Keith, that animation was great, only difference from what I have is no spring clip/washer on the needle

Ok, That washer, I have found them on some Villiers carbs and not on others.
I kept it in, in case someone had that washer, as its a very thin washer.

Cheers china. ...

The bore size on the inlet cowl can make a difference.
Please bear in mind that the correct carb for this motor should be the smaller 7/16" type. The inlet cowls on pretty much all the 40 series will be interchangeable. As for the rest of the brass parts on the carb i think you're worrying too much over nothing. As long as the carb functions well enough in the long run, the appearance of the internal brass bits isn't going to make a blind bit of difference to how it runs. As long as the air-ways and internal passage ways are clear and free of dirt then that's pretty much all that needs doing to most carbs. What's on the outside can easily be cleaned/polished if you're that way inclined!

I had similar problems with an LS i restored a few years ago with very similar symptoms. It would start and run, but would not rev any higher than a high speed tickover without causing the motor to cough and hick-up to a halt. (your motor has still to reach this stage Steve, but i'm confident it will do shortly)
By reducing the size of the hole in the cowl i managed to overcome all of its problems. Those members that can, measure a few and you'll see they range in sizes. Go with the smallest sized hole as a starting point, the mixture screw setting can get played with later on.
Effectively what i had done was to "starve" the amount of air going into the carb (remember it's only 7/16") which dramatically improved the fueling requirements to somewhere close to what the engine was needing. Bigger holes in the cowl would significantly weaken the mixture (despite having the mixture screw set to flush on the throttle slide) whereas a smaller hole in the cowl made the biggest difference. A final fine tune up to the mixture screw was all that was needed.

Jon

I remembered you telling me about the different carbs Jon, I really only wanted to see if I had set up the original correctly, so comparing both I know I had. then I thought why not swap the jets, I know the newer carb works, anyway I have swapped the jet so even with all my cleaning of the original I'm 100% sure now that it isn't a blocked jet, I know the Coil is working perfectly so I think it can only be a blockage inside the head it won't be blocked when I'm finished with it
thanks everyone for all the great help and advice
Steve

Isn't this a mid 50's LS Jon, wouldn't you expect this to have a 1/2" carb, with the metal inlet cowl with an 18.25mm hole?

It's the speed of the airflow through the carb that governs how much fuel is sucked through the jet, decreasing the airflow weakens the mix, increasing the airflow richens the fuel air ratio.

flyguy wrote:I remembered you telling me about the different carbs Jon, I really only wanted to see if I had set up the original correctly, so comparing both I know I had. then I thought why not swap the jets, I know the newer carb works, anyway I have swapped the jet so even with all my cleaning of the original I'm 100% sure now that it isn't a blocked jet, I know the Coil is working perfectly so I think it can only be a blockage inside the head it won't be blocked when I'm finished with it
thanks everyone for all the great help and advice
Steve

Hi Steve i think pictures are in order here can't see it being a blocked Clynder as the stage you are at you should see right through it can't help thinking woodruff /timing is the piston away from bloke yet nows the rings are they stuck down flat all confusion to you yes but it will fire up think it's one of those ones where your gonna kick yourself it does get easier

The bolt that holds the exhaust is off, the mechanic said it needed a lot of heat, I am off on Wednesday so I should have it apart then
fingers crossed

The head is off, the crankshaft is open and the piston is out, only a little bit of of rust, the other gasket will clean up fine, I did spot a blockage in the crankcase but I think it is just a drain, anyway its clear now, to me the piston is scored but I don't know if it is bad or not, I don't think the piston rings are broken, I can feel they sit maybe a Thou. higher that the piston and guess that is right but again I don't know.
I blasted some Carb cleaner onto the parts, rubbed them down with a cloth and washed them in hot water
Here are some more photos, please let me know your thoughts