Saving Old Seagulls

Had a pleasant hour stripping the FVP powerhead down earlier. All in excellent condition, even the steel gaskets are reusable after cleaning away the dried up sealant. Block, head and crankcases are like new, some surface rust on the studs. Remarkable condition!

Beautiful special little engine. I like the fact that it is different from the other forties.

Happy restoration!

Have a look at the transom mount on this one, maybe they had two styles on the little 40 models, obviously the tiller not right.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SeaGull-outbo ... 27d2205d4a

Tiller is fine...

Should have gone to specsavers.

Nice transom mount! Hmm

The FVP is now finished, I just need to leave the lacquer for a few weeks to fully harden before a light T-Cut. The engine was £35 from a guy in Northhampton. It just needed a light clean up overall.

I do like those odd sloping tanks. I just need an elusive model F to make a set...

I very nice job indeed, that style tank definitely stands out.
Good luck finding an old F.

Excellent restoration and one of my favorite models!

Well done!!

Your FVP looks really good. Well done. Yes the inclined tank looks special. I have one on my FV(T)- not as shiny as yours!
I didn't understand about the Tiller comments. Was it was about length?
My FV has a 5" tiller with the tilting tiller version being 10", which was the same length as the early SJMs.
Did the FVPs have a longer tiller? Would that have been logical due to the increased thrust?
Jeremy

The tiller comments were about the ebay engine I do recall CharlesSP saying a while back that the FVP had slightly longer tiller. I have another sloping tank that needs an end taking off, when I get around to it.

There did seem to be very little corrosion of the aluminium crankcase. A nice example. Perhaps not a lot of previous use in salt water. Probably will be even less use in the next 60 years? Should survive longer than most of us!

However did you take an specific steps to reduce the electrolytic corrosion that will occur in saltwater?
I think that the steel studs to the aluminium crankcase is the electrical circuit which results in the aluminium crankcase acting as the anode which then suffers - and sometimes severely. My theory is that if the aluminium can be kept dry, ie insulated from the electrolyte (the salt solution) by paint and sealant then electrolytic corrosion will not recur.
Additionally, of course, if all the steel can be insulated from the aluminium -both crankcase and head (impossible for the studs to crankcase) then electrolytic corrosion will not occur. Painting the studs would also help.

There is still the problem of other forms of corrosion.....

I am just about to start restoring an FV, so more than a passing interest.
Any comments?
Jeremy

I would like to do something about that problem with my two FVP's, one has a slight water flow restriction, ever since I have had it, the other is not finished yet, but has run.
They will both run with the head bolts removed , so I have little chance of pulling the cylinders apart and even less chance in replacing any parts if they are damaged.
Other models are not a problem, the little models either pull apart or you will do damage trying. as long as my one's work I leave them well alone.

Keith,
'They will both run with the head bolts removed'

Did you mean head nuts? Obviously corrosion between studs and head could cause that. I think that if the stud is insulated from the head then that would not occur. I am going to smear Defcon, which is a 2 part epoxy paste in the stud holes in the head. I am not too sure about how to insulating the nut or washer from the head - probably epoxy as well.
As you have a couple of FVPs and I don't want to divert too far from this post I will send you a pm.
Jeremy

Yes nuts, sorry.
The only problem would be covering waterway parts with something that may breakup and cause the same problem in the future.

Another project for someone maybe, shame its not the right transom.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/seagull-outbo ... 1e7a26e41c