Saving Old Seagulls

Steady on Gentlemen, this is the best first draft we've seen, OK there might be a few typos, if you've got any constructive comments, contact the author!

AusAnzani wrote:Still a bit on the steep side considering what's involved. They use to rewind coils (for switchgear components) at my old, was very simple, very cheap and very fast. Can't see why these cost so much!

I agree. I used to do it as an apprentice. Never worried about turns, did it by weight. Remove windings, weigh, check gauge and just wound new back on to core whilst weighing feed spool, easy! I have five to do. The whole thing only weighs 233grms so probably only 100grms of copper.

Anyway back to Adrian's great brochure.

Nice write up and very well done..just a quick question,are the bronze gear levers with Seagull Patent harder to find than the other bronze levers with no writing,also Brass carb bodies? Why didn't all SD type engines come with them and why did they stop making them?

Well

While we're on the topic of SD's, I thought this video on youtube may be of some use to you Oyster - a very nice original SD with the stenciling still visible on the exhaust tube, and doesn't seem to have been played with too much...
And a very good guide, a pleasure to read.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U5Rm-fREDc


Cheers
BP

Hurdy Gurdy wrote:Nice write up and very well done..just a quick question,are the bronze gear levers with Seagull Patent harder to find than the other bronze levers with no writing

Good point! Didn't know there was a difference until I just looked. I see my later SD has the brass Seagull Patent donga. 1 with, 2 without.

Thanks for the reviews so far, very kind of you a hard to please bunch . I will of course be amending this work based on feedback and info from everybody. I would like to see something similar for each model, pre and post war. I reckon we can persuede a certain person to do this for FV/FVP engines

Could this thread be made a sticky, so it remains at the top?

Re posting of pdf files, the forum does not currently allow this. To post the SD guide I had to put a word doc on the screen and take a screen shot. I then cropped the picture to page size and posted it as a jpg. So what you see is actually a photo of the word document!

Are all SD's long shaft? I have two short. I better measure them to see if they are the same.

Yes, longshaft as mentioned in the guide (!!)

Oyster 49 wrote:Yes, longshaft as mentioned in the guide (!!)

Some were cut down a long time ago
H-A

Well this is most distressing news. Maybe the mob that demobbed them cut then down to increase there marketability. I'll need to pull out a shortened driveshaft from the pump housing to see if it has been cut down. The original should have nickel plate on the end section and the cut down one be rusty.
Do we know what the P and L stand for at the end of the engine number?

No, we have no real idea, one or two theories, but no facts

"Little model 40's" should be fairly easy to work out from Jeremy's list already produced. Takes some careful reading i know.
SJM/SJP motors are already a work in progress with young Boyd. Keen to see how he's getting on with these.

As and when i'm ready with the 102's it should be pretty much the same format to read.
Laminating into a glossy paperback styled pamphlet may cost a bit (but maybe i can look into this as i have access to the equipment sometimes)

Nice work so far Adrian, save for a few typos here and there. I like it.


Jon

one of the benefits of being dyslectic, I never notice a typos.

AJ

Oyster, happy to assist with proof reading and correcting any typographical issues. Just let me know.

Suggest better position for the finished documents would be on the main site ie to compliment the model/series displayed when an serial number / model identification is performed. That would also eliminate the need for searches within the forum, which can be at times be difficult due to the volume.

Regards,
S