Santa Claus passed by my neighborhood (SD!!)

[Oyster 49]

Nice job. I like to see the scars of life, it is maybe 70 years old! Is that an extra condenser fastened to the magneto base plate?

[Niander101]

Is that an extra condenser fastened to the magneto base plate?

Yes its a fix when origonal condenser is broken.
Btw stelios if you can get copper tops made in Athens?
im up for a few as im sure would others also.

[Stelios_Rjk]

Hello guys,

I have just fit the magneto to the crankcase. The coil must be dead. I didn't get a spark. At least the powerhead turns free. Adrian

I had great difficulties in fitting the magneto as it has a steel ring in the center of the backplate and things get complicated. Finally I made it.

Now about the coil, what should I do to be sure that this is the problem?

It has crossed my mind to check if I can get made copper cover here. I will check it when I find some time.

[Oyster 49]

The mark 1 villiers magneto is particularly prone to the coils being dead. Its probably worth expecting any of these magnetos to be dead, and its a bonus if it works!
You can buy replacement coils from villiers parts with small sleeves to make the diameter of the centre shaft correct. Not cheap though. The same supplier can also supply the original condenser and points if needed.

That's the problem with SDs not cheap to restore!

Check the resistance from the plug lead connector on the coil to earth or the centre spindle of the coil, it should be around 4k ohms I think. Yours may well be open circuit. My SD was exactly the same. The inside of the coil will most likely be a green mush of corroded copper wire...

These engines are a marathon and not a sprint

If somebody obtains a supply of copper magneto covers won't this destroy the rarity value of the originals?

[Stelios_Rjk]

There is an expression you use in UK. Lucky son of...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFKG0h1W ... e=youtu.be

I checked with the multimeter, I was getting around 4kohms. So I though that something else was going on. Take of the cover and checked the point. All the time open and when the flywheel moves the one point, they are just getting closer. I adjust them to be in touch when the flywheel moves the one of them. And that was it!!!

As a conclusion I understand that it works the opposite way than MK2 works. The plug sparks when the points are in contact. In MK2 the plug sparks when the points are open.

If somebody obtains a supply of copper magneto covers won't this destroy the rarity value of the originals?

Hmm, you are right.

[Horsley-Anarak]

Great spark that was good luck, it saved you 75 Euros.

You could always pop that flywheel in a lathe to clean it up, give it a light skim, take off just a few thou.

H-A

[Charles uk]

As I said before in the 40 minus restoration thread, I will make some copper coolie hat flywheel covers if there are enough forward orders to cover my costs, or if someone else wants to do some, I will rent them the press & punch tooling, up to now the batch I made for John has only repayed a third of my tooling investment of £120.
If you want to rent it, let me know but bear in mind the shipping won't be cheap as it weighs over 10 kilos, they were made of 17 gauge copper sheet but the tooling will take 1.5mm.

To get the copper discs down to a viable price the minimum quantity will have to be 10 or more.

How many would you like Niander?

[Niander101]

The plug sparks when the points are in contact.

surely thats not right?

But anyway its always great to get a spark!


I would like 2 copper covers thanks


If somebody obtains a supply of copper magneto covers won't this destroy the rarity value of the originals?.....

but remember an original must be better than the copy!

[Stelios_Rjk]

I don't know about points. This is the impression I get working on the magnetos.

I have just poured some petrol in the carb inlet. In the first pulls when it fires, it was pulling my hand back after the fist fire. After a few pulls it fired properly until the petrol run out.

[Oyster 49]

Watch your hand Stelios!

Be careful when testing engines.

I had a 102 in a small bin as a test tank, just enough water to cover the inlet. I started it up and had a "Oh sh!t moment as I realised the carb slide was sticking and the engine raced away uncontrollable...at the same moment, the engine jumped into gear, moved a little and the prop cut a hole in the water tank. Water everywhere and the engine would not stop, managed to pull the plug cap off (And got a shock off that too..)

Flooded out the workshop, Mrs. Oyster commented how clean the garage floor was after I told her I had washed it out.

Wet feet, a sore arm and a new test tank required. Thought everybody would be amused by that little confessional.

[skyetoyman]

two 102 youtube video produced by Stelios -- both at night ,in the dark. Is there something we don't know about Stelios?.

[Horsley-Anarak]

at night ,in the dark. Is there something we don't know about Stelios?.

βρυκόλακας

H-A

[Stelios_Rjk]

Absolutely H-A!!

Yeap, I 'll keep it in my mind that Oyster, I had also an incident in which the engine jumped into gear. Luckily I was outside and apart from a little flood nothing more.

In the evening or at night I am more concentrated or I reach to an end.

By the way, I locate a skeg stamp but it is quite fainted and I don't know how to preserve it from polishing.

[Stelios_Rjk]

Some progress!









On brass exhaust 500-1000 wet&dry, then polishing cream.

On aluminum parts 320-1000 wet&dry as they had hard marks.

On steel drive shaft housing 280-1000 wet&dry because corrosion have made porous that finally couldn't get rid of them.


Now the next question are about the drive shaft housing. What do you suggest? Chrome or galvanizing?



About the block and crankcase. The crankcase could remain as it is. It's not fancy but I was polishing from the morning and only in the idea that I have something left I can't stand it
The question is whether to polish it or leave it as is or?

Now about the block. It is in good condition and I would like to to something close to the original. Galvanizing was one thought but the heat (420C) may distort it (I wouldn't like to risk it). So? Should I paint it black? Any suggestion welcomed!

[Oyster 49]

Nice job stelios! Polished up SDs look very good.
I've always painted my blocks black, but I do have a SD block in perfect original condition, so that one won't be painted.

I think the black painted block sets of the copper water pipe etc. nicely.

The original SD had a drive shaft tube with a dipped zinc finish like that seen on a galvanised sheet, like a matt grey. However I personally like to see the chrome finish if the original zinc is no longer present.

The crankcases can be cleaned with a rotary wire brush, followed by hand polishing with wire wool dipped in metal polish.

Keep up the good work!