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Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 11:42 am
by Stelios_Rjk
Kean leaking occur some times when the contact of the ferules and the fuel tap or carb is not perfect. When that happens I add some teflon tape and the problem is solved.
If you apply too much power you may distort the ferules as it is soft brass.
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:16 pm
by Oyster 49
The original fuel tubes fitted to Marstons, SDs, 1940s 102s, and the FV/FVP engines used soldered on joints, rather than compression olives. These fittings are available.
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:18 pm
by 1650bullet
I will try a bit of teflon tape and see how that goes first. If no go i will go and see the fitters at work and get them to make one up. As for the hot starting dramas im having. I checked the magnets on the flywheel and one side does not magnetize. Is this normal.
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:20 pm
by Collector Inspector
Hot starting probs can be because of crankcase halves not sealed.
You checked yeh?
Maybe stay shy of ignition for a bit.
Nice job of it by the way..............
B
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:36 pm
by 1650bullet
Collector Inspector wrote:Hot starting probs can be because of crankcase halves not sealed.
You checked yeh?
Maybe stay shy of ignition for a bit.
Nice job of it by the way..............
B
When i fitted the cases back together i used a bead RTV red silastic, So im hoping thats a good enough seal. Is there any way to check to see if its leaking or not.
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:46 pm
by Collector Inspector
Red silicon......................a smidgeon maybe. Not a big fan of it as fuel eats it.
Not really proper, case sealant like Bond 2 Yamahaa or similar in very minute coverage.
If you happy with seal and faces are matched, something else then.
Blue spark is good, look further aye?
B
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:47 pm
by 1650bullet
Just walk outside and had a look at all the studs. The top 2 studs that hold the cyl to the crankcases (under the ignition plate) were loose, Thanks for that C I I will put it back in the test tank tomorrow and try it out. Hope thats was the problem.
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 6:03 pm
by Niander101
Could well be .....I use good old red Hermetite
never had a problem.
Re: TC--102
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 6:51 pm
by Charles uk
All the RTV I use, claims to be fuel proof.
If you use the wrong profile olive/ferrule in the fuel tap or a retaining nut that doesn't suit whatever you've got on the end of the fuel pipe, it would be a very big ask, expecting it to be fuel tight!
Re: TC--102
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:38 am
by 1650bullet
Re: TC--102
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:37 am
by 1650bullet
Wet test. Very happy with it today, Time to go out on the water now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnmgRyGt04w
Re: TC--102
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:48 am
by Stelios_Rjk
You were close to bend the con rod!
But it was certainly a rough test!
Re: TC--102
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 12:17 pm
by 1650bullet
Stelios_Rjk wrote:
You were close to bend the con rod!
But it was certainly a rough test!
If water was to get in it would just stop. I got swamped by a Jet-ski one day out on the water with a 40-plus on the back and no storm cowl. All that happend was it just stalled. It started back up after 2 pulls. There a pretty tough motor. Ask chris how many times he has drenched his seagulls out on the water. Im confident that it can handle a big trip out on the river now.
Re: TC--102
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:11 pm
by Niander101
What hes saying is that water is incompressible unlike air
if the cylinder is full of water it could bend the conrod
sometimes happens to marine diesels on start-up if water has filled up the cylinder
them inlet cowls are good aint they

Re: TC--102
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:12 pm
by Stelios_Rjk
Oh, I see. I would be afraid of trying something similar!