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Transom bracket...

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:31 pm
by Seaduck
At the bottom of the transom bracket, the plastic horseshoe section the shaft tube sits in and the actual bracket casting have both had the 'open' ends broken off.

Its still secure but how easy would it be to neaten the broken casting ends and just replace the plastic 'horseshoe' bit or is it possible to still source replacment brakets?

Neal

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 7:38 pm
by Keith.P
That type transom is pretty common, you shouldn't have much problem getting another one, ask John or fleaBay always has one or two.

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:15 am
by 1650bullet
I just used a hacksaw to square of the broken edges on my century.You can buy a new one if you want, and its just a matter undoing the 2 copper brass like nuts, pulling out the stud, and removing the plastic part to replace with a new one, Here is a pic of mine with the edges cleaned up.

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:55 am
by charlesp
Whilst that does indeed tidy things up a bit there are now bits missing. The bar that closes the plastic gate should be there, this prevents the leg lifting while starting.

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:06 am
by 1650bullet
I was thinking what they were actually for, If there to prevent the motor from lifting when starting,Thats why they break (To much strain on them) I just keep enough pressure on the fuel tank with one hand, And use my other to pull the starter rope. I do have the 2 other holes on the end of the bracket to add a stainless pin to prevent the motor from lifting if i want, 8)

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:56 am
by charlesp
Yes you do. A steel pin will certainly do that.

The plastic component will do that, and is designed to be frangible, so if you clout the skeg on rocks or the bottom it will break rather than damage the motor.

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:07 pm
by 1650bullet
[quote="charlesp"]Yes you do. A steel pin will certainly do that.

The plastic component will do that, and is designed to be frangible, so if you clout the skeg on rocks or the bottom it will break rather than damage the motor.

Yes of course" I will just leave it the way it is i reckon. But if need be Maybe a length of dowel or a Bic Biro outer case cut down. Both of them would be a little bit stronger, but still have enough to smash if the skeg hits something

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:41 am
by chris
been using seagulls since the 70's, I have never used that plastic gate and none of my transom mounts actually have one on, I start mine the same as Kean, one hand on the tank, if you want the motor to kick up when hitting something why have something holding it down

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:04 am
by Seaduck
I didn't know the plastic bit was anything more than a seat for the leg to sit in... its the broken transom bracket casting that bothers me more than the plastic bit.

I assume the holes in the lower casting are to move the plastic cup back and forth to adjust the leg trim?

Neal

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:10 am
by chris
we might have gone off subject a little bit, yes the holes are for angle adjustment for trim and I don't yours has the plastic gate on it

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:44 pm
by 1650bullet
We have gone of track" If you dont need the extra holes for trim adjustment, then you can just clean up the ends with either a hack saw or angle grinder. I had mine trimmed all the way out on my dinghy, but it was chopping a hole in the water, So thats why ive got it trimmed all the way back in the holes its in now, So you shouldnt need them. Just clean them up i reckon.

Re: Transom bracket...

Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:45 am
by Chilli Dog
I take it this is not the jet propulsion tutorial ?