Saving Old Seagulls

Its the next door neighbours 40-plus. The driveshaft is siezed onto the pinion shaft, After spend a week of tipping WD-40 down the shaft centre, and around the pinion shaft area. We put the gearbox in a vice and wrapped a set of multigrips around the driveshaft and hit up on the vice grips with a hammer. (No Go) We then put the shaft into the vice and grabbed the gearcase with our hands (Wearing thick leather gloves) and tried to wrestle it of. And then this part just fell of .

Has anyone had this happen B4. Can it be repaired ,

Outboards No but quite a few times with Motorcycles get a expert to weld it (not a mate around the corner) then clean it up yourself,
It can be a invisable repair. First you still have to get the shaft free if its the same as a Century I would dismantle the gearbox then
take out the pinion & bush, should be easier to remove shaft then using a little heat.



John

Luckilly its not a structural piece, should be easily welded by a competent ally welder.

i found the best way of removing the drive shaft is to get a long metal rod that slides into the drive shaft .. clamp drive shaft into vice and then tap the rod to knock the gearbox off ..heat and oil helps .. i would'nt try to get it fixed when you can get a gearbox off ebay for a few quid ..

About the broken part. I had also this part broken. Welding by someone specialized in aluminium is the solution. TIG - argon something like that.

You get that on those big jobs
Weld it up...

Joined up a break in almost the same place using HTS 2000 rods, seems to still be ok, better to get a pro to Tig it though.

phil wrote:Joined up a break in almost the same place using HTS 2000 rods, seems to still be ok, better to get a pro to Tig it though.

Have you tried that on a piece of metal that remains underwater? Doesn't rust? I was seeking info for those rods and someone here in the forum told me that the material that does the fixing is prone to rust.

The consensus seems to be that although it shouldn't rust, there could be galvanic action between the filler rod and the casting. Most of these type of rods contain a fairly high proportion of zinc. The color of the filler material will be different (darker) than the casting. I would think it could be a problem on motors where the gear case remains submerged in salt water for days at a time, especially in a marina type situation where there may well be stray electrical currents.

I'm assuming that no knowledgable Seagull owner leaves their gear case in salt water when the motor is not in use.

Also as mentioned the proper fix is to have it welded by a professional or replace the casting and chalk it up to experience.

That means that the fixing may rust, not the original parts. Not bad, especially if you apply primer and sealant paints on that it will last longer.

Using the HTS 2000 filler rods I'm quite certain it will not rust, as it is unlikely there is any iron in the filler rods, there may be some corrosion from dissimilar metals if in contact with salt water. Paint should certainly help reduce the corrosion.

I have managed to track down a engineer who will repair the broken part. He said that he has the correct type of weld rods to use on this type of alloy. He said that its not a strong cast alloy judging by the look of it, and he is going to to be very careful as he welds it up. But it can be done. I will see how it goes.

Let us know how it goes.