Baring back to life 2 Centuries downunder

[Aircobra]

Hello all
trying to bring back to life
 LLSL 641 N5
wsl1073gg5
have to say, not sure how they have survived thus far
the whole design of runign saltware thru the gearbox and the mild steel shaft in a hollow steel tube doesnt look awesome
nevetheless, the piston and crank are in good nick ( not surprisingly given the oil mix ratio)
so about to order a big box from shredians, but have a i have a couple of questions
1. i see their https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/ ... sing-tubes
are 'plastic coated' and not chromed like the original
on the basis they're flooded tubes, surely that aint going to last more then a couple of months
2. since the sherdian coils are just a bit outrageous
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/ ... embly-coil
how about this one
http://www.villiersparts.co.uk/ignition.html
<left sideof the page>
3. he also has has levers
http://www.villiersparts.co.uk/cable.html
are they identical
just throwing in some pics to keep people entertained

[Aircobra]

this is the phots of the levers. the long one is from the amal

[andrew]

Hi Aircobra, welcome to the forum.

In the cooling system the only steel/iron touched by saltwater is inside the cylinder cooling passages.

The other steel exposure to water are the portions of the drive shaft and drive shaft tube that sits underwater, as you pointed out. The bottom of drive shafts (hardened steel) on poorly maintained motors can rust over time, but I’ve never had a problem with structural integrity of the drive shaft tubes themselves, they are possibly the most sturdy part on the motor. The tubes can be rechromed, depending on where you are it can be cheaper than shipping in new ones. The later model plastic covered ones seem to stand up well too, never had a problem with the plastic coming off (but unsure if Sheridan are selling same quality as those originally fitted).

Proper flushing and a bit of WD40 (or perhaps something a little heavier) after use will extend the life of these parts near indefinitely.

RE the coils, yes they are typically the most expensive part to replace, often more than the cost of the motor itself! If you search the forum for the coil part number you will see some good threads discussing options and how to consider some cheaper alternatives if that is the route you choose. One example is here https://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/p ... 634#p58381


Cheers
Andrew

[Aircobra]

Now I cant get the villiers coli shoes off
I drilled out the countersunk screws ( they would not budge) and the undid the stud nuts
I think its these
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/ ... l-end-stud
https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/ ... -end-screw
the colid ends seem to be glued to the alloy base
what am i missing?

[Collector Inspector]

Opened up a can of worms right there...

B

[Charles uk]

If the slotted end of the screws are at the top, that screw would appear to be holding the coil cheeks down onto the base plate, so the part of the screw to remove is the head, drilling from the bottom just wrecks the baseplate!

[andrew]

Hi Aircobra, did you manage to get the coil off? Baseplate and mounting screws etc can be replaced easily if damaged, plenty of used parts available for decent prices if needed.

Have you checked the resistance/continuity on existing coils? Many/most original Villiers M1634 coils fitted to British seagulls have degraded by now but there are still some out there working well enough.

Cheers, Andrew