flywheel end play

[GDTRFB]

Hi, new member here.

I just received a 1972 WSPCL from my neighbor who bought it new in '72. It has been left in a shed for last 15 years and he gave it to me after hearing someone stole my new 4hp 4 stroke off my 20' gulf coast sailboat.

After degreasing the engine, cleaning the tank, carb etc. I was checking the points gap and noticed the flywheel has a lot of end play. Is this normal? Or is it a problem somewhere I need to correct? the end play (vertically) is .035" to .040" as near as I can tell with my caliper.

Secondly, the other problem I found right away was the gear box full of rusty water and not oil. The crown gear is badly rusted and deteriorated. I don't want to dump a bunch of money into this engine. Can I get a used 48 tooth Crown Gear?

Thanks for any help.

Paul

[phil]

Should not be hard to find one in the Seattle area. You might try a free ad on http://www.aomci.org webvertize[free classifieds] area of forum.

[RickUK]

Crank end float you mention is normal.

Best bet for a crownwheel is probably John of-this-site - shipping shouldn't be too onerous. He could also supply you a cover gasket and any other nicknacks - eg. is the thrust washer on the back of the crownwheel badly rusted?

[GDTRFB]

yes, the thrust washer is toast too. Anyone got the part number for the Thrust Washer? I believe the crown wheel PN is P1408.

So what about the endplay on the crank / flywheel, I would assume that is bad? can it be shimmed from inside the housing or is it something I should not worry about? I have not taken a Seagull fully apart, yet, so I can't visualize what is going on in their or where it is wearing but assume it is the lower crank bushing being worn by the crank. the lateral movement of the crank is tight, it is just the vertical up and down movement that i am worried about.
I can take some picts and post them if that helps.

Thanks.

[charlesp]

The vertical movement you describe is entirely normal, and is present even on new motors. Please don't worry about it.

John (of this site) will happily sort you out with spares, reasonable in price and promptly and properly packed. He won't really need a part number - a description of the part and the serial of the motor (including the letters) is all he will need.

Good luck

[GDTRFB]

Thank you very much for the reassurance. Sorry about asking again. I missed Rick stating the float was okay.

Now, next topic - Compression PSI - I am getting a cold compression reading of about 32 psi. That seems pretty low, even in a 2 stroke...Do those numbers warrant a hone and new rings?

Paul

[phil]

How many pulls? 5x at least or until it stops rising on the gauge, may want to check with another gauge. Should be 50 anyway that is the number seen frequently, but may run at 35-40. The best I've seen on a Silver Century is 70-72. If still no higher check to be sure the head bolts are tight and none sheared. Next step replace head gasket. Rings may help, remove as little material as possible if you hone, just scuff up the cylinder glaze.

[phil]

Check to ensure the rings are not stuck, especially if there is lots of carbon about [exhaust port] Some people do not use modern 2 stroke oil [TCW 3], so the rings could be badly carboned up and not sealing properly. TCW 3 rated oil is way better at keeping the inside clean.

[Charles uk]

I've had Century's run & start OK at 40 lbs on my gauge.

Seagulls are designed to have lots of end float.

Glaze breaking is the dominion of the Flexihone (toilet brush with abrasive beads on the end of each bristle).
Read the instructions before use! & don't over do!