TC--102

[1650bullet]

This will be the one im going to do a full resto on. Tc-102 Built 1957--1958. Has Villiers Ignition. No carby--Fuel Tank and has a wierd shift lever thats going. Held thumb over the plug hole and has heaps of compression, Im going to strip it down anyway. Had a look on the spare parts section here, Can you still get pistons for these motors still. When ordering the rings are there different variants at all (Do i have to measure piston for correct rings or can you get piston and rings as a set)

Is it worth a rebuild or strip it for parts

[Oyster 49]

Any 102 is a good engine to restore, plenty of work to do on that one! Most parts are available new or used. Not sure about pistons but new rings are available. Suggest you have a close look at the block waterways, there will be various flakes of rust in there.

[1650bullet]

Have plenty of spares to use. Only things i will need to purchase will be a tank and brackets--shift lever--Rings--gaskets--nuts--bolts--Washers--pins--Bearings (Maybe)--Oil and service parts. I have taken the power head of today and i am now soaking the flywheel keyway with WD-40 to free it up for removal. I will then removal the barrel and (As you said Oyster) Have a look for flakes of rust. See how it all looks but i might take it to the local engine reco shop and have them bead blast and clean everything up.

[Niander101]

If it has "heaps of compression" You dont need piston and rings do you?

[Charles uk]

If it ain't broke don't fix it, is what Nianders saying.

[1650bullet]

What should the compression be on a 102. Least to highest.

[Chilli Dog]

0 to 50 , if you got 30 you'd be lucky ,if you don't have enough it won't run.

[1650bullet]

Pulled the flywheel of after keeping the keyway wet with wd-40. Came of with little fuss.The magneto base is going to be a nice little mission. Brother borrowed my butane torche and hasnt returned it . Looks like the locking screw maybe belted in there, mild steel and alloy dont mix. Cyl came of real easy, studs came out by fingers. Taking to base plate with some heat tommorrow and will soak cyl overnight and give it a hone. Need to get some whittworth tools from store to dimantle crankcases easyer.

[Oyster 49]

I use a smaller blow torch in situations like this, so the heat is targeted at the right place. 30 seconds around the area where the retaining screw goes in then a pair of mole grips with gentle torque should get it out.. Best of luck.

[Charles uk]

There is a very good chance you will shear the little square section end off the locking screw, I've broken several, here's the cure.


Take the base plate & crankcase to your local welders & ask him to weld a piece of 8mm bar to the end of the location screw, the heat from the welding will disapate into the base plate, expanding the aluminium that's holding it, then try the stilsons or your vice grips on the 8mm bar, do all this at the welders as sometimes the weld will break & it's better when hot.

Call John for a new locking screw in stainless steel it's 5/16 British standard cycle thread.

[1650bullet]

There is a very good chance you will shear the little square section end off the locking screw, I've broken several, here's the cure.


Take the base plate & crankcase to your local welders & ask him to weld a piece of 8mm bar to the end of the location screw, the heat from the welding will disapate into the base plate, expanding the aluminium that's holding it, then try the stilsons or your vice grips on the 8mm bar, do all this at the welders as sometimes the weld will break & it's better when hot.

Call John for a new locking screw in stainless steel it's 5/16 British standard cycle thread.

Thanks Charles. I didnt know that it was an original locking screw. All of the other screws ive delt with are just a sloted head. Will do what you said and fingers crossed.

[Niander101]

Interestingly Ive found that the square is the same size as the amal2jet jet removing tool
but only useful if not very tight.

[Hugz]

I drilled a hole in a stubborn one and put a bit of brazing rod through and kept the tension on overnight and by the morning it was free..... quite surprised me as I had a made a slotted tube/box spanner that slipped over the stud with short length of brazing rod through hole and it was rock solid. Great believer in keeping tension on seized fasteners for removal now. The twisting torque slowly works at them.

[1650bullet]

Well i got the locking screw out today. Just by chance i gave the end of the screw a very sharp blow with the hammer and punch. I then got the vice grips on the end of it and slowly end surley torqued backwards and forwards and out it came . Ive stripped the crankcase and removed the crank and found some suspicious marks on the inside of the top half crankcase (See Pics below) I had a look at the crank and big-end to see if there has been any rubbing. Cant see any apparent damage.

[Collector Inspector]

I think that those very light rub marks are from the crankshaft floating upwards. look on a top surface of crank lobes.......on the very edge. There is no sign of contact with the base of the top bush in that pic. Usually that bush stops an upward float indicated by a "Clean surface". Top float is basically "No Force Applied".

Check the big end for sideways movement............it should be hardly detectable. The piston helps centre the crank in cases while running.

I noticed a possible crack on your cap? Check that out aye.

Keep on with it, it will be all good!

B