WSC931DD8 Power Head

[Collector Inspector]

I spent 15 mins pulling the powerhead down, HOT as Mad Dogs and Englishmen etc outside................Still everything in boxes and sheds are a mess with Old Dears...........this was in a tub under the EB Ford so easy to grab for something to do. EB is FULL of STUFF as well.

The bluing on the crank is factory?

Every thing "Feels" up nicely so I am thinking that?

I like the locating dowels for the crank case but wonder why no oil hole in rod cap? 3/4 coverage of cap on journal does the trick aye? I would like to drill a 1/16" hole..........

And one other question re rod? What does Seagull 4 mean? (4 times better than Seagull 1)?

First "Modern Gull" I have pulled down here.

B

[Oyster 49]

Has that big end been getting hot?

[Niander101]

Looks like it take the rod off and have a look?

[Charles uk]

Blueing there usually means a big end in distress.

Seagull 4 means it's the 5th version of conrod design , the big end screws look like someone other than Seagull has played with that endcap, the shell bearings & endcap are machined in situ, if there are not replaced exactly in the same relationship as when they came off, this type of distress can occur.

The conrod should rotate under it's own weight (no piston or pin) when the crank is rotated not in crankcase.

If yours is tight Bruce try shuffling the components around after marking, if it won't swing freely it's new rod time.

If I remember right, the Seagull 4 rod had cast on marks, to ensure the cap was on the right way around, it's not recommended to just change the bearing shells. Not available on their own.

I think a new conrod lists for £ late 40's, ask John.

[Collector Inspector]

Played with yes in that maybe someone tightened fasteners.............they did not wire correctly "Counter Undo" between each one side only. They just looped around the rod which is not correct. Fully twisted one side only is only way that works.

I checked some parts boxes while sorting sheds today, weather has cooled off for a couple of days, MINT!

Every loose screwed big end blued their journal. Those tight and wired correctly no problem.

To blue like that...................takes a lot off heat aye?

Surely, big ends can be resized by hand if necessary? I know a few extra bits but what would be the problem?

Anyone tried?

Then there is the question..........which came first, the bluing or the loosening........

Cheers

B

[Stelios_Rjk]

Happy new year to you all!!!

Amazing! I was planning to post this picture to discuss it.
This picture learned me not to buy from ebay if buyer provide only blurred image and can't send more pictures...

[Collector Inspector]

So, has anyone tried?

Stelios, what shape is yours in?

B

[Horsley-Anarak]

Surely, big ends can be resized by hand if necessary? I know a few extra bits but what would be the problem?

Anyone tried?

Then there is the question..........which came first, the bluing or the loosening........

Cheers

B

I thin the shims down on a bit of 400grit wet and dry, if it is a little loose, works ok have not had a failure yet.

H-A

[Collector Inspector]

This is more like it!

Remember that the shims that you abraded are thinner only compared to the other bits so other bits should be in proportion to 180 degrees being same as well. That is where you need a vice. Also the cap land and rod flat land should be down the same, between the two each 1/4 what shims done?

Everything in proportion. And.........By Hand Only!

Do up the fasteners and the rod will not turn or be tight if you have not gone overboard with a bit of attention to detail.............Valve paste or rouge rotating in front of a good TV programme and gradually doing up the fasteners until what you want (What the engine wants)

It can take many many hours like this by hand but results are what you want to achieve when everything cleaned up and , if you are Anal about it, getting numbers measured.

I tend to go by feel and experience.

A seagull is not different to a one off, no choice but do it, precious con-rod in other Old Dears that you could not imagine existing.

It is like being in touch with what a component does.................

Everything in proportion, a light hand and patience.

The end result HAS to be "Round" everywhere!

Works every time.

B

[mrford]

Hi this looks like fitting a model T ford rod !!! You can use prussian blue and a 3 cornered scraper . Blue the crank lightly install the rod tighten the bolts and move the rod remove it look for blue scrape the blue . Be carefully and lightly clean all blue re blue crank reinstall and try again when you get 80 % blue and very slight drag you will have a correct fit . A 3 cornered scraper can be made from a 3 cornered file ground lightly on a grinder don't over heat . This will leave a good surface that will hold oil for lubrication . Just go easy . A glass of wine and some calming music and a comfortable chair . If you get it to louse remove a shim or file the flat on the rod were the 2 half's come together . Then re blue . I did a model T engine and It worked fine give it a try VIC

[Collector Inspector]

Yep, a tad like that MR F.

Wish I had a T to play with but ,sadly, no room anymore.

B

[Niander101]

Yep sounds good methods just not sure about the wine

[Collector Inspector]

I stick to beers myself.

6 pack on the left and empties neatly to the right..................behind my vice

B

[mrford]

Well The X got the T !!! What ever it takes to get relaxed and calm take your time and it will be fine !!! Don't get to calm easy in the alky Good lick from VIC