find a way to sand of all the old chrome on the exhaust tube and leave it bare brass.
The dust that you create from sanding chrome is pretty bad mojo. Outside in your nieghbours yard with lots of PPE and a breeze at your back would be a minimum requirement. Just a thought but unless you are absolutely set on the brass you could just get the rust neutralized/sealed and leave the brass protected by the chrome the way it has been protected all these years. If the chrome is extra ugly maybe some bondo filling of pits and a nice high temp paint job?
If you do go for the brass maybe see if you can get it de plated at the chrome shop. That part should be cheap and well worth it. If you know anyone who does bussiness with hydraulic or pneumatic cylinders they might be able to point you to a reasonable shop.
remember shiney only adds a mile per hour to her speed and does'nt make it any more fuel efficient.
Found a good place today who is going to de-chrome the exhaust tube, and chrome the drive tube. $80.00 Thats better. The only catch is a 2 week wait because he is flat out. That will give me some time to make sure i have all the parts and everything to assemble it all back toghether.
Finished at last" Took a while but after a bad start to the year and the arrival of our 3rd son (who is now 5 weeks old) ive finally got it done. The fuel tank will get all the dents taken out soon, But thats another day. Its a bit hard to find someone here to do such an exercise. I have not cleaned it yet so its still got marine grease all over it from assembly. I need to get a new bolt for the gearcase clamp and will fill it up with gear oil and pre-mix tommorrow and start it up in the wheel bin. If anyone can have a good look over it and tell me if there is anything out of place let me know and i will see if i can correct it. I have a few spare parts left. So maybe a can use them to match up to this motor to make it look original.
Coor Bullet ! Well done mate , that looks like a pretty bloody good effort , like the cooper fuel line and water out let pipe , perhaps it needs to be lower to get a small straight section prior to the carb as the crushing on the final bend there could be a problem . I haven't done mine yet cause I've had other thing to do , and I know it ant easy . But good luck for your test run , solid mate , solid . http://youtu.be/barWV7RWkq0
1650bullet wrote:Finished at last If anyone can have a good look over it and tell me if there is anything out of place let me know and i will see if i can correct it. I have a few spare parts left. So maybe a can use them to match up to this motor to make it look original.
Looking good and very good chrome on drive shaft
top of clutch rod is strange
and fuel pipe
Thanks Lads. Chilli-- I had a look at what you said and grabbed the coil and pulled down and bent the fuel line part so its straight instead of on an angle, Is that what you mean?. Niander-- The top of the shift rod was how i got it. Is it not original, Its properly threaded on and it looked like a factory part thats all. I do have another shift rod that i can swap over if need be.
Niander101 wrote:No its not should just be a bent over top pointing in
that then rests on top of flat part of exhaust clamp to stay up
It stays up on its own perfectly, and it is so smooth. Its very different to any other that ive seen. Have a look at the prop shaft end. Thats a different looking clutch fork as well, ???? Its got me confused I do have the type of shift rod with the top bent over, I will swap it over then.
I changed over the shift rods today (from my sd). I had to swap the clutch fork as well because the original was just not suited for the shift rod. I will now need to source another shift rod and clutch fork so i can keep the sd going. I had to take the copper fuel line of because it was leaking, So if your reading this stelios: Do i need to flare the ends or do the ferules bulge the ends out ( i probably have not fitted it properly) I ran 1.5ltrs threw it today in the wheelbin with some truckwash poured into it to clean out all the gallerys. 102s are a smooth running motor i reckon.
Troubles with the TC, I want to run a tank of fuel threw it before i go out on the water. I filled the tank up primed it and it starts 1st pull when its cold. But when i run it for a while and shut it down,it will not fire back into life unless i change the plug over. It doesnt look flooded and the other plug i use is one from another motor. Ive measured the coil and it comes up 3.26 k ( Dial is set on 20K) Ive measured the coil on another motor and it shows 9.12 k Would the coil be on its way out and loosing spark because of some heat drawing cuurent out from under the flywheel. Ive also cleaned and gapped the points as well and gapped the plugs. If i cold start it, Its always 1st pull. After that nothing will fire up until a swap the plug over.
I do have the type of shift rod with the top bent over, I will swap it over then.