HELP flywheel cover nut
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
HELP flywheel cover nut
Hi Newbie here.
I've got myself a silver century 1980 model.
How do I undo the nut ontop of the flywheel housing?
Thanks in advance
Sparky
I've got myself a silver century 1980 model.
How do I undo the nut ontop of the flywheel housing?
Thanks in advance
Sparky
- 40TPI
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:08 pm
- Location: North Buckinghamshire, 110 miles south of Yorkshire, England.
You will find answers to most questions on getting a motor going on the main SOS site FAQ section.
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq.htm
In particular :
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/flywheel.htm
Mount motor securely on stand. Use a tight fitting 7/16 BSF ring/tube spanner or socket and a wooden baseball bat etc to give it a good thwack anti-clockwise. (best use for a baseball bat.....
)
Peter
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq.htm
In particular :
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/flywheel.htm
Mount motor securely on stand. Use a tight fitting 7/16 BSF ring/tube spanner or socket and a wooden baseball bat etc to give it a good thwack anti-clockwise. (best use for a baseball bat.....

Peter
- 40TPI
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:08 pm
- Location: North Buckinghamshire, 110 miles south of Yorkshire, England.
Hitting a tool or machine may go against all you have been taught by elmers, teachers etc. but that is the recommended technique from British Seagull to remove a flywheel nut.
When you hit the ring spanner or tommy bar in the tube spanner anticlockwise you are relying on the inertia of the flywheel, drive shaft, gearbox etc. to keep the motor from turning over while the nut comes free. You could also wind the motor round to the start the compression stroke to add to the load.
Best to have the motor vertical and secure on a stand unless of course you can persuade her to hold it for you. Naturally ensure her prize vase/ garden gnome etc are not within your swing radius and are well removed from the likely trajectory of the spanner or tube spanner should it become detached. (A tight spanner tends to stay attached.....)
Never failed for me yet........
Peter
When you hit the ring spanner or tommy bar in the tube spanner anticlockwise you are relying on the inertia of the flywheel, drive shaft, gearbox etc. to keep the motor from turning over while the nut comes free. You could also wind the motor round to the start the compression stroke to add to the load.
Best to have the motor vertical and secure on a stand unless of course you can persuade her to hold it for you. Naturally ensure her prize vase/ garden gnome etc are not within your swing radius and are well removed from the likely trajectory of the spanner or tube spanner should it become detached. (A tight spanner tends to stay attached.....)
Never failed for me yet........
Peter
- 40TPI
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:08 pm
- Location: North Buckinghamshire, 110 miles south of Yorkshire, England.
I assume you are just going to adjust the points........ please check the links I sent if you are thinking of removing the flywheel. Under no circumstances use a flywheel puller...... you will distort or fracture the flywheel. It is so very easy to do even if you are only hammering the crankshaft and holding the power head up with a finger or two under a flywheel spoke!
Peter
Peter
Yes, it's electrocic. I'm guessing the serial starts with 'ESC', which of course stands for Electronic Silver Century.
Standard advice is - if it works OK, then leave it alone. I'll assume that you've got no spark and you have tried changing for a good known plug with the right gap and still got nowhere.
If you get a mate to hold the flywheel securely - the flywheel that is, not the baseplate, you can put the flywheel nut on just enough to act as a protectot for the threaded portion of the crankshaft, lift up the motor by the flywheel and give the nut a hefty whach with a decent sized hammer. Not a tap, but a good hearty whack, square on to the shaft so there's no danger of bending or distorting it.
Before you do that, mark which of the keyways is used - the flywheel is used on more than one motor.
The flywheel will come off to reveal a CDI unit. From the other Charles, who is an expert in these matters, I understand that you'll probably find that it's a white unit, with a screw terminal for the HT lead.
Try it, and if it sparks, then fine. If not, then we'll have to look further.
Good luck
Standard advice is - if it works OK, then leave it alone. I'll assume that you've got no spark and you have tried changing for a good known plug with the right gap and still got nowhere.
If you get a mate to hold the flywheel securely - the flywheel that is, not the baseplate, you can put the flywheel nut on just enough to act as a protectot for the threaded portion of the crankshaft, lift up the motor by the flywheel and give the nut a hefty whach with a decent sized hammer. Not a tap, but a good hearty whack, square on to the shaft so there's no danger of bending or distorting it.
Before you do that, mark which of the keyways is used - the flywheel is used on more than one motor.
The flywheel will come off to reveal a CDI unit. From the other Charles, who is an expert in these matters, I understand that you'll probably find that it's a white unit, with a screw terminal for the HT lead.
Try it, and if it sparks, then fine. If not, then we'll have to look further.
Good luck