Saving Old Seagulls

You can be a bit "ham fisted" with it, just dont go too heavy with the pressure you apply to the drill. Better to break the drill bit not the casting.
Some of the hard compacted crud may need a light tap with a screwdriver/small hammer combination to get it moving.
The more you remove, the easier it is to see where the jackets are.
Slow and steady, dont rush.
Might make things much easier if you remove the cylinder from the crankcase. 2 bolts on the back is all once you seperate the lower leg from the powerhead. Remove the exhaust tube and water feed pipe.
At the exhaust port you'll see the water pipe fitting which ideally if you can remove it makes access to the bottom of the jacket a bit easier. Heat is your friend here.

Looking forward to seeing some pics of the finished article.

Jon

Masonry bit is the best tool. I use a 5mm masonry bit in a small hand held battery drill, will not touch the cast iron but gets the crud. Just be careful not to bend and break the bit, or you will have all sorts of hassle getting it out.

When you think you have cleared it, whack the old gasket back on with a bit of RTV and then use the garden hose trick, as on the FAQ page.

If you get squirted in the eye there is still a blockage.. Often in the underside of the block, where the water pipe enters... Pain, but to get to it, the motor must be separated from the gearbox and leg, and the exhaust removed. Then the water pipe fitting unscrewed from the block to allow access. Have fun!

(By the way only use water as it is incompressable---- do not bother to use air, it can compress and go through a pin hole, expand and come out the other end and you will still be blocked and none the wiser!)

you are getting there and its all good clean fun!

Regards,
John
SOS

Thanks for all the tips. I'll have a go at this tonight and the next few evenings. Its just so unpleasant out there at the moment....

"...not to bend and break the bit, or you will have all sorts of hassle getting it out"...sounds like the voice of experience speaking

I will post photos when I make any progress.

Cheers
Steve

Yup Got the Tee too!

Regards,
John
SOS

Tried the back flush and as predicted got soaked. So now planning on pulling the barrel after a day or so soaking in penetrating oil.

When I do so I'll post pics of the rings to see if they need replacing.

Order of work is 1) separate power head from transmission (exhaust stays with power head) then 2) remove exhaust and water pipe from barrel finally 3) remove barrel from crankcase. Correct? Is the water pipe bolted in or simply a tight fit in a socket?

Cheers

Steve

Actually I'm in and all was self evident. Fasteners were not seized and so it came to bits okay. Exhaust needed heat but came off eventually. Biggest challenge was the prop leg bolt between the propshaft tube and the exhaust. A real challenge to get a spanner onto!

Rings look bright and shiny. No breaks or rust.

Photos of rings etc And the exhaust port and water port Crud is now clear to the extent that I can blow through easily

Steve

John stocks a tool kit with a spanner for that job, have a look.

Aha! I will. Thanks.

I recently came across some nuts that were too badly corroded and considered a nut cracker <ouch>

Anyone used one?

Yes, as long as you can get it around the nut it use it.

Good point... it is not going to fit is it.

Heat and soak with penetrating fluid. Repeat as required.
Locking pliers (vice grips) work quite well, but may end up chewing the nut a bit. New nuts always available.

Jon

That offset spanner works a treat. So far reassembly has gone well the hardest part being getting the exhaust lined up to allow the little screw into the block casting back in.

However that done I'm now into cleaning and assembly of the fuel and ignition systems.

Steve - feeling optimistic!

Good to see you have stuck with it. Once you have been through the engine they will generally work reliably for a long time.

Looking forward to see it run.