The Century is now officially a minus!
I swopped the gearboxes of the 40 and the Century, (you have to swop them at the water pumps though, and it fits perfectly) and then the century runs with a lot more power. That is the final nail in the gearbox coffin. The weak power is still a problem though. The 40 I need to really force a rag unto the flywheel to make it stop, but the century takes a little bit of effort to kill. I even swopped carbs (Villiers) to make sure its not carb related. Ignition is fine and honed to perfection. (The 40's points is set to 0.4mm, but I left it there since it does not seem to mind.) I've even been so daft as to try the 0,4mm gap on the century, but it does not like it at all. I think the the rusted through block has killed it, although it was/is only to the outside. Maybe there is a crack or hole from the water jacket to the the carb intake that I can't see. For those who may want to know. The water jacket corroded away to the outside of the carb side. It was fixed by welding a plate on the outside of the block, it curbed the water leakage, but I now have reason to believe there may be an air/water leak to the carb intake as well. There is no obvious signs of it, at least it does not suck water into the crank! Any idea how I can test for a carb/water jacket leak or maybe crank outlet to cylinder? The cylinder wall is definately 100% intact. Maybe I will start a new thread on the topic in future.
