What's happened to my drive

[Frankenstein]

I've got no drive to my prop!

All I did was remove the prop for inspection - see photo:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/ ... 1297427328

I emptied the old oil from the gearbox and replaced it with new oil. And now prop shaft doesn't engage. I can spin it by hand. What do I need to do to get the gears to engage?

It a featherweight, minus 40, EGF441JJ1.

[Charles uk]

You omitted to replace the hardened thrust washer, between the crown wheel & the gearbox end cap.

[Frankenstein]

Hi Charles,

Please could you explain what the following are:

1. hardened thrust washer
2. crown wheel
3. gearbox end cap

I should have taken photos = doh! Any diagrams?

[Frankenstein]

Apart from the filler cap, these are the only bits which I removed:

See photos below, 2 washers, prop, spring and cotter pin:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/ ... 1297430389
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/ ... 1297430569

[Hugz]

I have the impression that frank didn't take the end cap off, only the filler cap. Probably never had a flywheel key.

[Frankenstein]

I only removed the filler cap, on one side, and the bits which you can see in the photos on the other side. I have no special tools, and I'm not sure what an end cap is (but I can guess).

[Todd]

If, after putting everything back together, it's the prop that you are spinning by hand, check the placement of the drive spring. It's the prop's only connection to the prop shaft.

If you're turning the prop shaft itself (your first picture, #...328) with no sensation of engagement, then you'll have to empty the oil and remove the end cap (the front cover which the filler cap screws into) and see what's going on.

[Frankenstein]

If, after putting everything back together, it's the prop that you are spinning by hand, check the placement of the drive spring. It's the prop's only connection to the prop shaft.

If you're turning the prop shaft itself (your first picture, #...328) with no sensation of engagement, then you'll have to empty the oil and remove the end cap (the front cover which the filler cap screws into) and see what's going on.

It's certainly not the spring placement.

The prop shaft itself is turning freely with no sense of engagement.

I'm really starting to feel a bit fed up with this gearbox now because I get the impression that something inside the gearbox has managed to work itself loose. I may have to cut my losses and sell it as spares/repairs on ebay within the next few weeks.

[Vic]

To drain the oil you removed the plastic plug with the cross slotted head ? Yes?

The end cap is the domed front cover which the above is screwed into. It is held to the gearbox housing by two screws.

The crown wheel is the toothed gear wheel inside the gear box which is pinned to the propeller shaft. It is driven by the pinion gear fitted to the bottom end of the vertical drive shaft.

The hardened thrust washer is inside the gear box, on the prop shaft between the crown wheel and the bearing bush in the end cap.

I dont understand why your picture of the prop and drive spring shows two washers. Mine has only one, fitted between the drive spring and the split pin . The parts parts book only shows one. The thrust washer will be the same size as far as I know. Is one of those two really the thrust washer? (is one hard?)

But why have you no drive?
The vertical drive shaft is broken ?
The crown wheel is not pinned to the prop shaft??
The propshaft is broken.
The thrust washer is not in place? Can you pull the prop shaft out a bit and regain the drive?


It pretty darned simple. Selling on ebay for spares is a drastic step.
Take the end cap off ( its only a paper gasket between it and the casing so you can easily make one if you damage the one fitted) Should be simple enough to see what's wrong. If the pinion and crown wheel are meshing Ok then possibly it is the vertical drive shaft. Even that is simple enough to replace

[Frankenstein]

To drain the oil you removed the plastic plug with the cross slotted head ? Yes? Yes

The end cap is the domed front cover which the above is screwed into. It is held to the gearbox housing by two screws. Ok - please see photos and comments below.

The crown wheel is the toothed gear wheel inside the gear box which is pinned to the propeller shaft. It is driven by the pinion gear fitted to the bottom end of the vertical drive shaft. I've not been inside the gearbox yet - please see photos and comments below.

The hardened thrust washer is inside the gear box, on the prop shaft between the crown wheel and the bearing bush in the end cap.

I dont understand why your picture of the prop and drive spring shows two washers. Mine has only one, fitted between the drive spring and the split pin . The parts parts book only shows one. The thrust washer will be the same size as far as I know. Is one of those two really the thrust washer? (is one hard?) Where can I get a parts book?

But why have you no drive?
The vertical drive shaft is broken ? Unlikely - everything was working fine before prop removal and oil change.
The crown wheel is not pinned to the prop shaft?? Possibly
The propshaft is broken. Unlikely - everything was working fine before prop removal and oil change.
The thrust washer is not in place? Can you pull the prop shaft out a bit and regain the drive? I can move the prop shaft out about 1/8" but no amount of wriggling can get the gears to mesh.


It pretty darned simple. Selling on ebay for spares is a drastic step.
Take the end cap off ( its only a paper gasket between it and the casing so you can easily make one if you damage the one fitted) Should be simple enough to see what's wrong. If the pinion and crown wheel are meshing Ok then possibly it is the vertical drive shaft. Even that is simple enough to replace

To take the end cap off - easier said that done. I've managed to remove one of the screws which holds the end cap. The 2nd screw is just laughing at me! It will not budge! Take a look at what I'm up against:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/ ... 1297440380
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/ ... 1297440408

How on earth do you shift something like that? I'm not a skilled mechanic but I'm confident that I given the right tools I could probably dismantle and re-assemble a Seagull - If all the parts were brand new. I've already sheared a piece of the screw by trying to tap it out.

[Oyster 49]

Where the screw is refusing to budge, apply a little heat to the area where the screw screws into. Then use a pair of molegrips on the head to get it moving. If it comes out suggest you invest in 2 new stainless bolts and oil/grease the threads.

[phil]

That is one seriously corroded mess! I have seen some bad ones but,wow. It may be still salvageable, depends on how much effort you want to put in. Perhaps someone on this forum will sell you one that would be easier to work on. Better to spend a bit more and get one that can be repaired more easily.

Before plunging in to repair, it would be better to assess exactly what is wrong with all key parts of the motor. This will give you some idea of the probable time and cost involved. If a motor is not in running condition this should always be the first step in any case. Even as much as possible before you buy it. One look at the lower unit and I would have walked [ years of experience]

Quick and dirty way, hacksaw the heads off the screws, tap the end cap till it loosens, pry off without breaking or damaging anything. You will then need to deal with removing the ends of the screws, [needs plenty of heat, maybe mapp gas] but you will have access to inside the gearbox. My fear would be that the inside may be as damaged by corrosion as the outside, which could be why the shaft turns free.
It is possible also that the inside is ok. My guess 2:1 that it isn't.

If the motor itself runs and given the fact you are not used to mechanical work, the best advice I could give would be to get a lower unit complete in good working condition,or better replace everything below the powerhead unit, but only if the motor is running and pumping circulating water well.

[phil]

Just read your other thread so overall the motor doesn't seem too bad. You may want to be on the lookout for a featherweight box though depending on what you find inside.

I do sometimes tend to lay on the doom and gloom a little too heavily, so my apologies. Still it will be challenging to remove the end cap I'm sure. There will still likely be broken screws to remove unless you are a very lucky person.

Best luck!

[Frankenstein]

To be honest the photo makes it look worse than it actually is.

I will try to heat the bolt tomorrow and see if I can shift it. I will keep the forum posted.

Thanks for all the help.

[charlesp]

Rather than heating the screw heat the aluminum into which it is threaded. Use a lot of heat. Best not to go down the hacksaw route if you can avoid it.