102 vs century

[Mutineer]

Hello
I hope everbody is doing well
I haven't been here for a bit but I'm still using my stalwart 40 plus clutched longshaft
but still looking for a little more omph!

I have a chance to purchase a early 60s clutched 102 (normal model not plus)and I was curious how it compares to the century?
More or less power?
Weight?
Fuel consumption/
Parts availability/maintenance?
Sex appeal?

THanks

[headdownarseup]

welcome back!

how big is the boat you intend using said motor on?
century motors (depending on which one you go for) have 2 different size props. direct drive usually 9 inch and clutch drive usually 11 inch (weedfree and hydrofoil props)
so "power outputs" can vary a little. i use the term power output loosely, its more to do with thrust.
personally, i can recommend a silver century plus motor. good spread of power, happy just ticking over at trolling speeds, just as happy at wide open throttle (if a little noisey)
but very much down to personal preference.
before making any decision, make sure you match the engine to the boat. no point having a huge motor on a small boat?

regards jon

[headdownarseup]

WHOOPS!!
just re read post

yes absolutely go with a 102 (my favourite seagull) clutched model very useful. not that much difference between 102 and silver century in terms of "power"
water jacket cleaning can prove difficult to rectify. see previous posts for advice on this.
good looking motor the 102. some might even say SEXY looking. i like em a lot, they just look right!

jon

[Mutineer]

I have a full keel double ended Danica 16 sailboat (15ft). It weigh 900 lbs.

[Mutineer]

Is $140 a decent price for an intact 102?
Everything looks good except the tank looks a little like it had a short run in with a ball pean hammer on top back.
I was told it runs well, starts easy etc
The fellow (who runs a sport fishing business)got it from a friend and he isn't interested in it anymore though he cleaned it out and got it running last fall.
prior to that it had been in a shed for 20 years..it doesn't look rusty though

[pat777]

Sounds reasonable for a 102 if you can see it running and everything is in proper working order. Did the previous owner have the outboard apart when he refurbished it? If he's put in new piston rings and gaskets etc and cleaned out the block properly then it should keep going happily for another few years/decades.

However if when you say he "cleaned it out", that he just cleaned out the petrol tank and carburetor added new fuel and then gave it three pulls, then there is a possibility that it may need additional work doing for it to run reliably, (especially if it has been run in salt water). It all depends really how much use and abuse it has had in it's life. I'd go with your gut feeling on it, but definitely a 102 would be a nice addition to your flock.

Cheers Pat

[headdownarseup]

if it helps any with regards to maintenance etc. cast your eye over one of my posts on D9666 restoration. this will give you some idea of where to clean the water jacket.
reliability wise, a 102 is much the same as any other seagull really. after the usual checks/adjustments to the ignition system, fuel system etc. it should be as good as what you are using now, only with a bit more thrust.
i would think a 102 on a double keel boat should be no problem for it.
i use a 102 or silver century on my boat which is 16 foot with a day cabin up front and it seems to push it along nicely even with 4 or 5 people on board.

jon

[Mutineer]

I picked it up, what the heck, it's fun to play with
1963 TC82103
I don't think the previous owner did rings etc, I think he would've told me , he seemed pretty honestly ignorant of Seagulls in general.

Many things were loose;
-the clutch arm(should it have a spring tightener? , it does) it wanted to pop into gear by itself...what fun!
-the tiller arm -it wanted to travel downwards..I believe it should have a spring tightener but doesn't(can't really remember if it should)
-The fuel hose/pipe..leaky leaky until I tightened it at both ends
annd the fuel tap,,which kept vibrating closed-and cutting the motor out which was exciting when I took it for a brief spin after checking and tightening the other things.
The amal jet carb doesn't have a choke????? what the??!! That can't be right (I noticed that when I bought it but as I said I was having fun) I used a rag but I thought it seemed a little too labour intensive..it is a Seagull but come on!
I believe the the exhaust pipe is a new and heavier stainless job though I could be wrong. It has a heavy clamp up top that says ('Sparts' on it) and you can see the little cuts around the edge of the top of the pipe and it's very slightly loose at the bottom end where the water pipe comes out
(edit! i think it's chromed actually and not SS, MAybe just in really good shape, most of the ones I've seen on centuries, silver centuries etc seemed to be much thinner metal though(usually chrome over brass with a tendancy to crack around the bottom a little, this one looks much more skookum

Is the hose from the top of the sylinder head to the side of the exhaust(where the water comes) out originally black rubber?

It ran well on my boat and got it going a little quicker
However here was a bit of a breeze and I was motoring downwind.
With the extra weight (heavier than the 40 plus) it sat lower and pretty well got swamped by a wave at one point..almost died but didn't.

Neat engine, As it turned out to be a short shaft I'm not sure if it'll do the trick. I like to have a little more engine out of the water in case of just such an occurence(though I could monkey with my transom bracket.

It's a heavy little unit though! but I like the round parts!!! motor, cylinder etc

ps my boat is a double ender! not a double keel(not that it makes a difference)

[phil]

My 102 AC model (1955-56) does not have a choke either, block off the intake with your free hand when you start it.
I have used the 102 as well as a Silver Century on a 21' fin keel sailboat having a displacement of just over 2000 lbs. They were both quite adequate in terms of moving the boat, not too much difference. The Silver Century was a long shaft and the 102 a short shaft. I agree that the long shaft is more suitable for some sailboats under certain conditions. Such as a left over heavy following swell, no wind. Not too hard to change it to a long shaft.
For what its worth, I found the long shaft Silver Century a little heavy to handle at times. Mainly, climbing up the ladder with it on the fisherman's wharf at low tide.
Made up a bitsa that addressed those issues without being too heavy. Direct drive, 3.5:1 gearbox, 102 powerhead, recoil start, 9" 5 blade prop. Clutch is nice but I found I really did not need it that badly.

[headdownarseup]

welcome to the club!
these 102's are really sturdy motors.
ok on with whats right and wrong on your motor.
exhaust tube should be chrome plated brass correct.
water transfer pipe on top of engine should be copper or nickel plated copper yours has plastic (functional but from a later model)
tiller should have the spring to tension everything. easy to fix and will also sort out some of the rough running.
some carbs will have a choke, early ones wont have. easy to swap a later style inlet cowl that has a choke flap with it. (easier to start from cold)
engine jumping into gear, probably an adjustment needed with the clutch rod. clutch lever will "wobble" a fair bit but like the tiller it should have a spring behind it to tension.

your serial number would suggest a fairly old motor in terms of 102's so water transfer pipe has probably been replaced at some time.
fuel tanks are very much a personal choice. undented as possible is always nice to have but even a tatty tank shows character! as long as it doesn't leak thats the main thing.


are you going to be using this motor on a regular basis? if yes, then possibly swap the entire ignition for the later wipac (gold flywheel) original villiers magnetos are now becoming a bit tempremental unless the coil has been replaced for a new one. (more advice on this on other topics)

everything else on 102's the same as any other. maintenance is the key to long service. only rebuild the power head unless you have to i.e. low compression, crankcase leaks or waterflow problems through the block. other than that leave it alone? paint it if you must which will help to preserve the cast iron block. drive tubes can rust badly. again personal preference as to painting or original nickel/chrome plating.

for me though there is only one way. as they left the factory with original decals and as far as possible with authentic finishing on metal drive tubes and exhaust tubes.
sometimes costly but well worth it when you're done.
have a look through the gallery pics on the main site for inspiration and you'll see what i mean!

jon

[pat777]

Glad to hear you went for it in the end and good luck getting the few minor issues sorted. Any chance of a picture or two, descriptions are all well and good but it''s a lot easier to give feedback when you can actually see what's going on with your own eyes.

Is this the same type of boat that you have, this one has a seagull too, a coincidence or perhaps this is your actual boat?

Cheers Pat

[Mutineer]

Yup, that's it allright, with my 40 plus hanging off the back
I will try to take a few decent photos

[Mutineer]

[quote="phil"]My 102 AC model (1955-56) does not have a choke either, block off the intake with your free hand when you start it.

Free hand?? I usually have one hand on the tank and one hand pulling the rope!
Does SOS stock 'free hands' ?

[skyetoyman]

Press the tickler to run fuel through the carb. Cover the intake and give a pull or two with the cord to draw fuel into the barrel . then start as normal with a hand on the tank.
If it starts use a hand as the choke to keep it running. It takes a little practice but is good fun. !!!!!

[Mutineer]

cool. I'll try that. thanks!
Some photos;