My Mate and I decided to ignore phones , shut the doors and pissed off to make an extra long weekend. All went well. Long day as we did the tours of small towns etc as well.
Purpose was to pick up both a Johnson JW18R and the LS.
$AU300 the both.......A quick check over and a done deal.
Forget the JW as it is basically a user with a new impellor.
The LS
- Copper Head Gasket
- Steel Base Gasket
- In The World
- 7/16
- 3 holes
- Spark
- Compression
- See Pics for the rest.
Fired up out of tank..................not in tank................turned it upside down for top bearing lube.............OK now.
Bruce,
Thanks for the news on your new acquisition. Looks a good complete usable engine.
I have added the details to the Early Series Forty data sheet.
It appears to have a (damaged) Dover Grip which is in keeping with others of approx this age. It would be interesting to know whether this grip was used on all these early series engines. I suspect it was.
I presume the 7/16 you have stated refers to the carb size and not the tank radius ends? Any further info on the carb - is it like the others around this serial number - ie without a throttle stop, and with a central air hole in the choke shutter and with a drainage hole in the carb bowl?
Is the tiller length 10"?
It is interesting that it has the clamp bolt pump housing (as opposed to the threaded version). This reinforces its probable introduction just before Adrian Dale's LS24747 which also has the CBPH. LS24100 is the last on the data sheet with the threaded pump housing.
Sensible (and original?) idea to invert the engine to get oil into the top bearing. A useful idea.
Good find; Interested in the copper head gasket. Some one must have had the head off at some point in time assuming that Steel was used right through this range.
Do we know if that is the case Jeremy?
Still have a few steel plates if any one is interested.
. 10" tiller
. Carb slide has hole for pin but no pin carb top. (I always thort the pin was a guide........like my FVP......the pin just slips into the hole effectively keeping it square on at over 1/2 throttle)
. Interesting country fix for points. It worked.
. Date flywheel 10th 1954.
. Tank is smaller by 1/2" or so. (I have forgotten where I read the reason)
. There is a chrome job under the tank paint.
. Hole in fuel bowl and hole in choke.
I will have it running shortly. I will flush the old oil out of gearbox and replace later.
Started easily and settled down pumping water instantly as normal so no mud demons.
Reached for the camera and "That sounds Odd".........Raw fuel spitting out of the carb bell..........coming out of the air equalizer hole until the inside of the bell was full..........No Go NoMo.
The carb main jet holder had been played with and was very easy to insert.........with a wobble when seated. That is It then.................find another. It was bin fodder.
Another found and installed (Jet body in Ice Water and carb body in hot water. New Fiber washer and jiggle juggle tap tap OUCH (Yes carb body was HOT) .
Nice tight fit when tapped down and locating screw firm.
Once again into the tank. Once again exactly same problem. Checking the plug both times it was sooty and dry.
Noticed this second time..............when roped over on or off the choke............carb spat!
Same thing out of the tank on stand by the way.
I have not checked if the ignition plate locator is in the hole...........
It is very much like the piston is opening the cases too soon..........
Transfer port/crankcase - area - lower gasket recycling..................Between gasket/shim and crankcase..............No water anywhere it should not be.....
I really do not want to go there.........
Cuppa and back to it. Lovely day for Gullatious Antics.
Good progress Bruce, although there is bound to be a problem or two. I am sure that you don't want it to be too straightforward!
Thanks for the info and the clear photos.
The carb looks to be a later one, judging by the choke shutter mounted on the Right of the inlet. Also the hole in the shutter is much larger than normal for an LS. These later carbs normally have a 1/2" venturi, whereas the usual size for an LS carb is 7/16". Is it possible that this might be the cause of excessive blowback?
The throttle stop is a small (about 1/8" long) peg positioned about 90 deg around from the much longer anti rotation peg. I think these later 1/2" carbs were not fitted with one. From the data it would appear that the latter/most(?) LS did not have a throttle stop.
10" tiller sound right. Did I see an Amal throttle lever on the tiller?
Flywheel date of October 1954 fits in nicely as LS27084 was the last produced in 1954 and so I expect 26125 was produced at BS in Nov/Dec 1954.
Adrian - I haven't any definite info on steel/copper plates. I get the impression that all LSs would have been fitted initially with steel, so you are probably correct in suggesting that this copper one was subsequently fitted to 26125.
Good tip about the hot and cold water method for jet removal. It saves using the big hammer!
The carb is a MKII stamped on bowl. Maybe I have mis-represented it..................I have not seen the FVP one for years and the box of bits is buried still.
LS is how many cc...........there was nothing special bore and stroke .........I can not remember
I have an idea..................
Just to check another carb fitment to see what may happen short term.
it must have been in the air as this afternoon I got my 'old dear ' (LLS 21492) going for the first time in 8 years.
Bruce lives just up the road, so to speak. Well about 50km, but we don't call that far here.
Unlike Bruce I am an engineering ignoramus but I have stripped the carb and rebuilt it, fitted a shiny new fuel tap, adjusted the points, cleaned the damned things with cardboard and metho after putting grease on them from the feeler gauge, fitted a new HT lead after the old one fell apart.... and bugger me but after the 6 pull she ripped into life. All part from John in far off England.
Tomorrow the tank for her. I am a bit worried about the water output as I think there may have been a problem last time. If so I am really in the soup as my engineering skills are right on the edge. Wish me and the 'old dear' luck!
Hi folks, jumping in here a bit late.
CARBS
right then, last year or so you might remember i was playing with LS35744 and couldn't get it to run sweetly. I tried the larger 1/2" carb after stripping and cleaning several times but still ended up with the same results.
The motor would cough and fart from idle up to around half throttle,from half throttle to WOT it would struggle to rev-up and get going.
S0....time for a smaller carb. (i'm pretty sure the 7/16" carb is correct for an LS unless Jeremy can tell otherwise)
Same thing, strip and clean everything,needle jet set to standard setting (flush with the slide) and give it a spin.
Straight away the motor started a lot easier,although still struggling a bit to rev-up.
Next thing was to adjust the mixture (1/2 turn down on the screw) and try again....a bit better this time.
Right i thought, i must be on the right track, adjust the mixture a bit more (another 1/2 turn on the screw-----so now it's 1 FULL TURN down from flush)
Tried it again at this setting and the motor was completely changed,no fourstroking,nice even idle,sounds good at low and high revs.
Coming up to date with another LS of mine, this time 18849, pretty much the same things although i did have a lot of trouble with sealing the cylinder,head and crankcase but i'm pretty much there now.
The bottom line here is the best way to test your seagull is on the back of a boat.It will also provide a much fairer test as the motor is kept under load for much longer,also a good time to check the condition of the plug as this will provide clues as to where to adjust the mixture! (very basic stuff really)
All seagulls will behave slightly differently to the next one. Experiment to see what works for you. As long as the basic requirements have been met (spotlessly clean fuel system,an ignition system that produces a reliable spark and that it is set correctly,and some compression..) then you have a baseline from which to work off. SMALL INCREMENTS of change can have a dramatic effect in how an engine runs.
Both my LS's have the 7/16 carbs, one original the other fitted after removing a 1/2 one. The inlet port on the LS is 7/16 dia so having a 1/2 carb makes little sense. Both motors now run, with LS18407 having done many hours on the back of the boat.
Before you delve into other possible problems follow Joh,s procedure above, with a 7/16 carb fitted, and I suspect the problem will be solved
Thanks A-J
yep,the inlet stub on the cylinder is a big giveaway on the "little model 40" series,so it makes sense that a smaller carb is what should be fitted.
Strange though that with the later model 40's (SJP,FP etc.) BS fitted a larger 1/2" carb even though both types of motor are still 64cc.???
.